Anyone ever get professionaly fitted for clubs? If so did you notice a big improvement ? I’m currently hitting stock Taylormade r9 irons which are fine but I was debating on getting fitted for driver/woods. I’ve got an old ass Nike sq dymo driver with a stiff flex shaft a Taylormade r15 5wood with a regular flex shaft and and a Callaway razr 3hybrid with a stiff flex shaft. Clearly my clubs are all over the place and I’m not sure why but I hit the 3 hybrid way more consistent than the other two.
Golf Club fitting
- Thread starter MikeZ37
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ChuckMejia
The General
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FWIW... I play to a 7 and this is my experience. I was fitted for irons and although I will say that they may have 'felt' better, I am not sure the improvement was that drastic or measurable. I then got fitted for a driver and the difference was pretty big. Tightened up my dispursement pattern and added 10 to 15 yards. Very noticeable. The key is (from what I was told) that you have to have a pretty consistent swing and set up to see a big difference. The PGA pro that fitted me told my best friend that he needed to work on his swing and develop consistent impact before a custom fitting would be worth it.
my consistency probably isn’t quite where it needs to be so if that’s the case I’d probably be better off spending the money on a lesson or two vs the cost of a fitting for now. What was the big change they recommended for your driver ? Loft degree, shaft flex , length?
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I play the ball off of my left heal when I drive. We went from a 10.5 loft to 9.5 and a shaft with a different kick point (can't remember if it was higher or lower) to reduce the spin rate. I had enough swing speed and a positive enough angle of attack that I did not need additional spin to get the ball high enough in the air. Reducing the spin helped with control and distance. Shortened the shaft by 1/2 inch for additional control. If I sound like I know what I am talking about, I really don't. I am just regurgitating what I learned. Basically, I think that if you can swing generally the same way with the same set up 4 out of 5 times....I think it would help. If you are constantly tinkering with your swing and ball position....probably not.
Oh damn you could have fooled me haha I didn’t realize they got that technical that’s awesome. Ball position I’ve kept the same pretty much forever (same as yours) but I’m still working on getting a lower flight trajectory right now but I’m starting to question if it’s more a result of my driver also being at 10.5 since I’m now hitting my irons lower and better than ever before.
Being a college golfer we get fitted every year and get huge discounts on clubs and shafts even before that I used aftermarket shafts to help keep my desperation on my driver tighter and lower spin and launch. Putter fitting is also very important as the amount of toe hang and affect the ball and cause you to miss putts. I suggest club champion they did a really good job.
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I have ignored the putter but I want to do that next. So is that the cost for fitting and a full set of clubs including putter? Once I can get the kids out of college and off of the payroll....I want to do that. That's pretty good. I don't think we have Club Champion around here though.
Yes the only clubs not fitted were my wedges which I had custom sm7 raws done from vokey. I also used my heads on my 3 wood and 4 hybrid because they were new. Also if your looking for anything in particular I got tons of clubs and shafts I’m not using. I got shafts anywhere from $200 to $800 imported from Japan. Also if your wanting titilest my golf coach can order anything you want dirt cheap and I’ll ship it out to you brother.
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Well that is good to know....I may take you up on that some day. Thanks!
Golftec seems to be the big name around here I was talking to a rep a couple weeks ago and they said they’ll waive the fitting fee if you end up buying something through them. Might have to treat myself for my birthday.
Golftec dosent have 1/8 as many options as club champion, club champion is extremely indepth
Don't feel obligated to buy from CC. The invoice reflects MSRP pricing. For instance if you bought a set of irons, you are paying for a full set of irons, disassembly, and reassembly with whatever shaft and grip that they fit you for. They are essentially double-dipping.
I have been fit in the past, but as a gear head for decades, I fit myself based on shaft characteristics once I find a head(iron or wood) that I like. I play to a 5, and don't find the fitting to make any difference in my game. Just remember you can be fit for clubs and spend boatloads on shafts, and that scratch or plus index player will shoot his score with off the rack clubs that are a few generations old.
Indian, not the arrow.
I have been fit in the past, but as a gear head for decades, I fit myself based on shaft characteristics once I find a head(iron or wood) that I like. I play to a 5, and don't find the fitting to make any difference in my game. Just remember you can be fit for clubs and spend boatloads on shafts, and that scratch or plus index player will shoot his score with off the rack clubs that are a few generations old.
Indian, not the arrow.
how do you personally decide on what shaft you go with? Is it all based on what feels good or do you really care about the numbers? The only thing I’m looking to take away from this is stiff or regular flex shafts for my woods/driver. I’m a very simple man
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It should based on what you want
Feel
Shape of shot
Carry distance
Playing style
For example I use a mid luanch shaft but to counter a little I use more weight and that will help me keep the ball straight. Different strokes for different folks.
Feel
Shape of shot
Carry distance
Playing style
For example I use a mid luanch shaft but to counter a little I use more weight and that will help me keep the ball straight. Different strokes for different folks.
Also being said many companies will say look at our premium shaft offerings that’s a lie those shafts are garbage watered down shafts with a fancy paint job. For example the rogue drivers have evenflow shafts if you look at them they don’t have the handmade in California at the top by the grip, also real ones have custom paintjobs no 2 are alike.
Well for my irons for example I’ve played Dynamic Golds for all of my golfing life. Played X100s for the past 15. I know I want a 130g shaft but something that is a little softer in feel so I went with Nippon Super Peening Blues.
As for woods, I need a shaft that has a stiff tip, soft butt and a low spin low launch design profile.
I know the specs in conjunction with design so I can basically look at shaft profiles and see what I’m into. Plus years of playing different shafts, manufacturers have a specific feeling. I’m a big Mitsubishi fan because the shafts don’t feel like 2x4s which is important to me because I play 70ish gram X tipped 1”. I’ve tried Ozik back when they were hottest on the market to Fujikura to TT HZRDUS and they’ve felt boardy.
So for me it is very much driven by specs of the shafts I’m looking at and years of experience in learning what I like and don’t like after a lot of money spent trying different shafts.
Same here I’ve had so many shafts and clubs I know what I like also play nippon iron shafts and love them so much better then kbs. The Taylormade p790 are a absolute winner from Taylormade best irons out hands down imo and I’ve hit just about everything, Taylormade loves to bust out new clubs every 6 months and there’s a reason these are still in the lineup and going on a year old. The mizuno mood-18 mmcs are also very good I was sold on those till I hit the 790s a second time and had slightly better spin rates with them.