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Help, my car is stroking out

bostoneo

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This has been a fun past 12months for car issues for me!

So... in Nov 2017 my 2010 Mazda3's engine began to hesitate when idle, it would rev up to 1250rpm, drop slowly to under 1k rpm and do it again... sometimes the engine would just die out completely and I'd have to restart the car, fun in stop and go highway traffic. So I took it to the shop, they did tests and determined one of the two O2 sensors was running lazy, replaced and was running fine for 2 months until Jan 2018 when it exhibited the same issue again!

So, knowing my K&N air filter was coming up on 50k mi when it needs cleaned etc, I decided to go buy a standard paper air filter to see if anything would happen. It appeared to fix the issue until another month later in feburary, same issue! Took it to the same shop and the owner dug into it for a couple days and determined the other O2 sensor was failing to. I ran to mazda dealer and picked up the OEM replacement, installed, same issue. So they cleaned the throttle body from a bunch of carbon buildup and did a vac test which passed, and probably some other things I don't remember... still an issue. The mechanic noted that when rev'ing over 3k RPM the tach would bounce down about 250rpm back and forth.

So now, the troubleshooting process has led me to put in some fuel injector cleaner and a tank of premium gas to run through to see if the issue improves as it may be restricted fuel injectors... Anyone have some input that might help? I am getting no codes from my OBDII scanner (bluedriver) nor check engine lights. Also noticed since going to shop Saturday and putting in fuel injector cleaner / premium gas in tank, get some white smoke, which looks like exhaust maybe... Thought I was tripping at first lol.
 
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Hey @bostoneo three things I would do. ...
- EVAP SOLENOID - remove and blast through with cleaner. I can get you the location later, but it should be easily accessible.
- MAF SENSOR - Between airbox and throttle body. You remove this sensor and clean it with MAF spray ( electronic component cleaner)
Overlooked by many, I clean mine with every alternate oil change.
- VACUUM LEAK - This is likely to have been done by your mechanic. But get some of that either "hot shot / hot start spray" starter spray and spray it around the running engine.
points of interest will be the intake manifold and areas with vacuum hoses. The engine will " race up" when the aerosol gets near a broken hose.
For safety, stop spraying that shit around when engine gets hot.
 

bostoneo

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Hey @bostoneo three things I would do. ...
- EVAP SOLENOID - remove and blast through with cleaner. I can get you the location later, but it should be easily accessible.
- MAF SENSOR - Between airbox and throttle body. You remove this sensor and clean it with MAF spray ( electronic component cleaner)
Overlooked by many, I clean mine with every alternate oil change.
- VACUUM LEAK - This is likely to have been done by your mechanic. But get some of that either "hot shot / hot start spray" starter spray and spray it around the running engine.
points of interest will be the intake manifold and areas with vacuum hoses. The engine will " race up" when the aerosol gets near a broken hose.
For safety, stop spraying that shit around when engine gets hot.
The MAF sensor was cleaned at mechanic and he checked for vacuum leak, everything is sealed up good. I don't recall evap solenoid being cleaned.

Have you changed the Fuel Filter?
I have not

Bad ignition or starving for fuel. Did they ever have to do plus and wires?
I changed plugs at 75k mi (car at 115k right now). Mechanic checked plugs and they look brand new he said. Did some research and I am going to check the spark plug wires and and if any cracks in those or the boots.



I just got back from 80mi lunch break drive/cigar smoke all highway to process the injector cleaner and high test gas. Had one hiccup at 2k rpm where it feeled like the car lost power but quickly recovered. Scanned for codes, after clearing any, and did get a P0300 code.
 
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Well, at least you have codes. 0300 absolutely could be coils or wires. Funny thing is why isn't it telling you which cylinder , like MISFIRE BANK 04 ?
Crank position sensor could do this........
 

bostoneo

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Well, at least you have codes. 0300 absolutely could be coils or wires. Funny thing is why isn't it telling you which cylinder , like MISFIRE BANK 04 ?
Crank position sensor could do this........
maybe a squirrel got up under my car and chewed some sets of wires...Mechanic was sure it wasn't crank sensor, forget why though (iam not typically a car person haha)

FWIW, heres a log of some stuff during my drive today.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/12GbYFnjs8fU7bR86HWA9uweyKW763Oux1RStcMY5dxg/edit?usp=sharing

can tell at end where I let my car idle
 
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Your engine is blind, so it's the crank position sensor's job to tell the ECU when to fire. This solved a stalling problem on my wagon.
I still feel since your 0300 code is not sating a specific cylinder, that this is a somewhat "global" problem.

If symptoms change, ( recur, or cease) right after getting gas, it could indeed be the purge control solenoid. (evap) Known issue according to these guys.
http://www.mazda3forums.com/122-stock-issues/325766-mazda3-stalling-issues-idle-problem-thread-read-first.html
 

bostoneo

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Your engine is blind, so it's the crank position sensor's job to tell the ECU when to fire. This solved a stalling problem on my wagon.
I still feel since your 0300 code is not sating a specific cylinder, that this is a somewhat "global" problem.

If symptoms change, ( recur, or cease) right after getting gas, it could indeed be the purge solenoid. Known issue according to these guys.
http://www.mazda3forums.com/122-stock-issues/325766-mazda3-stalling-issues-idle-problem-thread-read-first.html
funny you say that about gas. The first time it happened was 10mins after I filled up last November. Stalled out in bank parking lot. 2nd and 3rd time wasn't after getting gas tho hmmm
 
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This purge valve is online for $27. But you can pay for it online and get 15% off or something, then pick up at store. It should be between the engine and firewall.
It's likely in-line with the vacuum line going from your intake manifold to your Brake booster. Just throwing that out there. Not guaranteeing anything.
 

bostoneo

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This purge valve is online for $27. But you can pay for it online and get 15% off or something, then pick up at store. It should be between the engine and firewall.
It's likely in-line with the vacuum line going from your intake manifold to your Brake booster. Just throwing that out there. Not guaranteeing anything.
is there another name for it? trying to find it on the OEM parts site
https://www.parkmazdaoemparts.com/parts/2010/Mazda/3/S/index.cfm?siteid=215334
 
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Purge control solenoid valve. I put this on a car once, and my problem wound up being a cracked spark plug.
But the computer graduated to finally telling me which cylinder.
But for $20 since the old one was 10 years old, and makes cars stall, It was worth a shot. Kept it installed.
 
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