Pipe Restoration Questions

[djs134]

My pipe restoration retort will be here within the next day or so and I plan on beginning to clean and sanitize my father's pipes.

I've found some pretty good info on the net regarding the use of a retort in regard to briar pipes and I'll probably start with a couple of his old Grabows just to get the hang of using the system.

He had a high percentage of meerschaum lined pipes that really could benefit from a good cleaning, but I haven't found any info on using the retort with meerchaum. Anyone have any info on this?

Also, obviously the stems all need to be cleaned and buffed. I have a grinder that I could put a buffing wheel on, but that seems a bit of an overkill. Any quick effective way to clean the stems using say generic baking soda toothpaste?

Thanks bros.

 

[Séamas]

You shouldn't use water or alcohol on meer. Just carefully use some sandpaper to sand down the inside of the bowl.

As for stems... are they oxidized? If so, stick them in bleach for a couple hours or so. Cover any logos and such with petrolium jelly first. Then, use a buffing wheel on your grinder set to low speed. You might be able to get away with using a stem polishing compound and cloth, but if you can make use of a buffer, why not use it? It will work easier and better than any other method.

You can also use a cloth buffing wheel to shine up the briar. If they are varnished, I would probably remove the varnish using fine sandpaper, then use some brown tripoli compound, then carnuba wax, followed by a final buffing. In general, pipes smoke better without varnish. The vast majority of medium to high grade pipes are waxed, not varnished.

If they are not varnished, just a waxing and final buffing should be fine.

You can get compounds, waxes, buffers, etc., here:

pimo

Ideal spead for buffing and waxing is around 1750 RPM. You can go slightly higher but apply less pressure.

If you have the ability to buff that is certainly the best way to make your pipes shiny new on the outside.

Instead of waxing, ot to maintain pipes between waxings, I recommend getting some Briar Pipe Wipe, made by (ironically) Arango Cigar Comany. You spray it on a handiwipe, let it dry, then wipe your pipes down with it. It shines and protects, and the cloth can be used over and over until it disintegrates, so a can lasts forever.

Likewise, to maintain stems once they have been restored, you can use stem polish. Pipe Wipe and stem polish can be had here:

cupojoes

Hope this helps.

 

[Fox]

I would add that if you are unfamiliar with using one, be very, very careful with the buffer. As a custom knife maker I can tell you that it is the most dangerous tool in any shop. Carnuba wax is a great choice for the wood. Something I might try is using a red stick rouge, found at most good hardware stores, for buffing the stems. The red is a very, very fine grit often used by jewelers. Use very light pressure and examine the stem to see how deep the rouge is cutting. Take your time and examine often. Rubbing alcohol will remove the rouge without damaging the stem.

 

[Séamas]

Good point Fox. Be safe. I've had a couple pieces of briar go flying out of my hands when I wan't paying attention. Make sure you have a good grip, a good stance, and apply light pressure.

The slower speeds are somewhat safer, but can still send a pipe flying.

The jewelers rouge sounds like an idea. Let me know how that works.

 

[tedski]

I agree that the bleach + buffer method is the fastest and easiest, but also note that you will wind up with a stem that is no longer the original size. Bleach is excellent for removing the sulphur on old Vulcanite stems, but it also pits the surface. This can be easily buffed out, but you wind up with a stem that is noticeably narrower than when you started.

This probably won't matter much on old Grabows ... but if you ever find an old Dunhill, Charatan, etc. ... you would be better off going the slow way by using baking soda toothpaste + Gunk hand cleaner and an old toothbrush. That way you can preserve more of the pipes' original dimensions + value.

Be cautious with the retort system also. Hot liquids can do nasty things to the exterior finish on your pipe ( not to mention the exterior finish on your body ).