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Sorting Leaf

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My short spiel is know your leaf.
I believe there is no substitute for the relationship building with the leaf.
Having to prepare leaf for cigar assembly in addition to what you buy I believe, is unavoidable.
A lot of what you'll get will be different as far as classification.
Meaning, caricature in body or weight / thickness, color, qualities like burn, aroma, taste. All which will determine what and how much preparation will need to be done.
I believe that the final preparations should not be done before the manufacturer. Because it would not store well.
In addition, there are things being done that manufacturers will not talk about. A master blender is not going to tell us his petuning method or recipes. They are there trade secrets.
I want leaf straight out of a bail. I don't want any additional handling being done that is not necessary. I want to be the one doing the final sorting and classifying. I'm very happy to be able to get leaf that has been prepared properly for bailing.
Applying moisture to the leaves makes the leaves easier to handle and reduces the risk of broken leaves.
 
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Can you elaborate on the processes that you do, for example, when you get a pound of viso, seco, and ligero of the same leaf do you then re-sort based on the leaves of each priming being similar to the other? Ex: seco being closer to viso or ligero.

Or does your sorting go more along the lines of I have 1 pound of x leaf, I’m going to sub-sort the leaf into viso-esque, seco-esque, or ligero-esque leaf?
 
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Can you elaborate on the processes that you do, for example, when you get a pound of viso, seco, and ligero of the same leaf do you then re-sort based on the leaves of each priming being similar to the other? Ex: seco being closer to viso or ligero.

Or does your sorting go more along the lines of I have 1 pound of x leaf, I’m going to sub-sort the leaf into viso-esque, seco-esque, or ligero-esque leaf?
I think I get what your asking. I'll say both. Mostly though, each lb will stay together.
It goes like this, while casing for handling it will get roughly separated and, rotated till it can be handled (it will go in and, out of the tub/bag to take the time it needs to case up) then, that lb will get stacked from light to heavy and, go back in the bag for storage at a lowered case.
I'll use two planks of wood 14" by 33" next to each other and, there might be 10 or 12 piles that I'll spread out, separate and sort.
There will be some seco in the viso some ligero in the seco, yada yada.
I have taken a lb of seco and, a lb of viso (or different primings) of the same type of leaf, separated separately and, store them in the same bag set opposite each other. Some classifications will go into the other.
In addition, there will be few special, very special leaves that are smaller and, thicker known as media tiempo (corona). The very top of the plant. Treat them as such.
The second time I ordered leaf from Jorge Doctsch I asked him why there seemed to be some similarities in the two different priming bags, he said that I was right and, there is and, that it was my job now to learn and, know the difference and, his job was done. Welcome to cigar making. . That was very exciting for me and, I was eager to do so.
 
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I've read on other threads of BOTLs declaring leaves as "binder quality because it has a hole in it. I know for a fact that I have on many occasions used a leaf with holes as a wrapper because when I wrap I have at least 200% coverage and its very unlikely that there wlll be 2 holes lined up on the final stick.

Which brings me to my question: if I were studying to be a beer judge I'd study and memorize the beer judge style guidelines. Are there similar published standards for determining how many holes and flaws a leaf can have before it is no longer considered wrapper quality?
 
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Not that I have seen but, figure if there is a hole that can be covered by an overlapping then it will work.
Recently there was a posting of a Nica Rustica I believe, which a patch that was applied behind a hole. Which is done by sticking the leading corner of a patch just before it comes around.
I will think nothing of patching from the outside as well.
Almost anything can be used to wrap when a creative nature is at hand.
 
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I've read on other threads of BOTLs declaring leaves as "binder quality because it has a hole in it. I know for a fact that I have on many occasions used a leaf with holes as a wrapper because when I wrap I have at least 200% coverage and its very unlikely that there wlll be 2 holes lined up on the final stick.

Which brings me to my question: if I were studying to be a beer judge I'd study and memorize the beer judge style guidelines. Are there similar published standards for determining how many holes and flaws a leaf can have before it is no longer considered wrapper quality?
Ten months ago I did a video about wrapping with moderately holy leaf. These are not 2-inch diameter holes, nor dozens of 1/4-inch holes like you often find in crapwrap. But they are holes and tears:
 

Dominican56

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Ten months ago I did a video about wrapping with moderately holy leaf. These are not 2-inch diameter holes, nor dozens of 1/4-inch holes like you often find in crapwrap. But they are holes and tears:
This patching holes is a good technique that I learned from you. I've used wrapper now that I previously would have tossed.
I patch on the outside and inside but my focus is patching the inside of the leaf when possible. Sometimes I put the hole in myself so then it's an outside job. :)
 
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I'm frugal by nature. I haven't found a wrapper leaf yet I couldn't' use for something, even if it was to patch other wrappers :)
 
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