I always just open one end of the tubo/glass/etc. & store it that way in my humi. Prolly personal preference more than anything though.Although, I now have an interesting question. I picked up a Montecristo Sublimation Afrique today. Glass tube with the cork stopper. I assume I can't leave it in there too long? Should I take it out of the tube? Just uncork it? Maybe just bomb one of these Churchills as a show of noob good faith?
Ditto on this note, I see lots of people battle back and forth on this issue and insist they are correct.I echo what Brent said too. It's nice to see someone actually listen & not fight tooth & nail about it for once!
Hahaha ain't that the truth! I have seen more threads about mold/flume than any other topic. But sometimes I can't help but read through the thread. It's kinda like a train wreck. You just have to look!Two things I have learned in my time here:
1. If you have to ask if your Cuban is fake, it likely is.
2. If you have to ask if it's plume or mold, it's likely mold.
Ok I have been using KL as well since about June and love it. Very very little maintenance. That said how often do you change out the litter? That's the only thing I have not figured out yet. My RH also stays rock solid at 64 which I think is perfect.I just like the KL method because in the long run, it's so much cheaper. I've been on the same $10 bag of KL for the last two years, through two different wineadors. Still have about a quarter-bag left, and it's always held my system rock steady at 64%, with almost no upkeep. A spritz of water every couple of months, if that. Haven't actually needed to add water for about three months now.
Veering off-topic...So reading this. Do you think I should wait until I am done (in 8 more days) with my Boveda seasoning on my HUMI and buy the KL and use a 65% boveda or after seasoning will the 65% Boveda work on its own?
The Boveda pack will work fine on it's own. Once the humi is seasoned, take out the 85% bag, and put in the 65% bag. It'll eventually adjust. Dry KL will work a little faster because it is thirstier, but the Boveda should be able to absorb the extra rH as well.
I just like the KL method because in the long run, it's so much cheaper. I've been on the same $10 bag of KL for the last two years, through two different wineadors. Still have about a quarter-bag left, and it's always held my system rock steady at 64%, with almost no upkeep. A spritz of water every couple of months, if that. Haven't actually needed to add water for about three months now.
I can also fit the KL in my wineador better. Bovedas work great in the lid of a traditional humi if you have a holder, but not so well in the drawer of a wineador. The cigar coffins I have with KL in each drawer take up a lot less space.
Oh, I change mine every six months to a year, whenever I notice it's getting yellow.That said how often do you change out the litter? That's the only thing I have not figured out yet. My RH also stays rock solid at 64 which I think is perfect.
I would start from scratch with what you have. Make sure everything is calibrated, re-season the humi, maybe the seal is bad ... but if it is maintaining 72% it shouldn't be an issue. Maybe try keeping them in a plastic container for a while and see if their condition improves.Hey guys, I've had this issue over the past few months and I can't seem to put my finger on it. I have 2 50 counts that I've used for about 3 years. They've each got probably 30-40 sticks in at a time. But they seem to be drying out the cigars. They aren't frail or brittle but it seems like the elasticity is gone. They aren't as "spongy" and seem to firm up a bit. My sticks never last long enough to age so I'm not sure if this is what generally happens after a few months of storage, but I'd like my sticks to stay at optimal freshness. I'm using the humicare beads but over the past week or so, I've also thrown in a water pillow on the off chance my humidor is not sealing. I doubt it's leaky because it has a great seal. Any ideas or pointers would be great!
Thanks!
Good luck! Learning as I go as well.Thanks for all the help (and the ribbing) guys! I ordered a 10 pack of the medium Boveda 62% RH packs. I figure I will let my humidor cool down to about 64-65% before I put them in. Also, I will be home early enough to FINALLY calibrate my hygrometer!
Aren't we all!Learning as I go as well.
Because you don't know the extent of how much mold is inside the cigar itself. A few spots on the wrapper can be wiped off but mold in the foot can mean mold in the cigar. Smoking a moldy stick can make you sick and not worth the risk if you see mold in the foot.Question (now that the main topic has been resolved here): If there is white mold (aka harmless mold) on the foot of a stick, why is that cigar unacceptable for smoking and a stick which has white mold wiped from its wrapper all good to smoke?
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Isn't it harmless though if it's white mold regardless of where it is in/on the cigar? I would think that wiping a few spots from a wrapper which was once infected wouldn't remove 100% of the mold. No? If yes, then anyone who has done that has smoked the white mold. Why is it bad to smoke white mold on the interior of a cigar and not the exterior of it? Please feel free to tell me if my logic is off base. Questioning only for the purpose of everyone learning- not challenging anyone personally here.Because you don't know the extent of how much mold is inside the cigar itself. A few spots on the wrapper can be wiped off but mold in the foot can mean mold in the cigar. Smoking a moldy stick can make you sick and not worth the risk if you see mold in the foot.Question (now that the main topic has been resolved here): If there is white mold (aka harmless mold) on the foot of a stick, why is that cigar unacceptable for smoking and a stick which has white mold wiped from its wrapper all good to smoke?
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