Compressor Wineador

[pbibby]

Some of you probably saw my thread on the AMAZING Christmas gift I received this year. I have to say I was completely blown away. But, after doing a bit more research on the type of wine fridge I received, I realized that it was a Compressor type fridge.

Here's my thinking: I live in Milwaukee where it is a reasonable temp for most of the year (except for the summer). I'm not exactly sure if I will need to turn this thing on or not. My first thought is that i will not need to. I can keep it in a basement for a while until I move into a new place in July. I guess I don't know what I need to do if I do indeed need to turn it on.

I have gotten some feedback on this from some awesome brothers already (Thanks guys!) but I am just looking for extra input/information from as many brothers that want to chime in.

Thanks guys!

 

[aherzing]

I have a TE 28 bottle that I use and ETC with and 2lbs HF beads... It sits rock solid at 65% UNTIL the unit kicks on and then humidity is all over the place... Moral of the story, either one you go with, I wouldn't plug it in, so stick with what ya got...
That's just my opinion though.

 

[MoJo]

I have a TE 28 bottle that I leave on and it stays pretty stable at 63-65rh, but I am using a combo of HCM beads and Heartfelt beads. Plan on switching the combo to just HCM and Boveda packs that I rotate and rehydrate to see if that is a better combo.

My recommendation is to use more beads/packs than you think are required and leave it on all the time at first and see how it does and then adjust accordingly. There are a lot of factors that can impact the humidity (like how full it is and the ambient temp/rh in the room).

Also, if you don't already have one, get a decent digital hygrometer so you know that you are getting accurate readings.

 

[AlohaStyle]

Beads, beads and more beads.

Also, make sure if/when you have the unit turned on that there is a place for condensation to gather. A/C units can accumulate water when turned on and usually have a drip pan etc. Not sure how your model is set up, but when I used the 28-bottle wine fridges, I left the drain plug alone and if there were any condensation, it would drip out into the drain pan like it was meant to. Some people plug up the drip line to keep the humi as air-tight as possible, I personally think that is a mistake. A little drain line that leads out the back doesn't do a thing if you have beads and some cedar to help keep a consistent Rh.

Of course you can "plug up" the drain line when not plugged in, but if you need to run the unit, I would keep it open and use the drip line. If you have enough beads, I think you should be okay but don't be alarmed if the Rh moves a bunch right away. I think all wine fridge units go through some ups/downs until the temp is consistent and the beads have a little time to stabilize the Rh.

 

[aherzing]

I think morrisjohn missed the point... We are talking about using a compressor system... I forgot to mention, it is possible to use the cooling but you'll need an active system and passive most likely to compensate (so cigar oasis and HF beads for example) and if you are considering turning it on, you NEED an ETC- I have never heard of anyone successfully using a compressor unit simply "leaving it on"

 

[MoJo]

I think morrisjohn missed the point... We are talking about using a compressor system... I forgot to mention, it is possible to use the cooling but you'll need an active system and passive most likely to compensate (so cigar oasis and HF beads for example) and if you are considering turning it on, you NEED an ETC- I have never heard of anyone successfully using a compressor unit simply "leaving it on"

Never used a compressor first hand, only read from other people using them, so you and the others are most likely much more knowledgeable on the subject. I only suggested to first try it "leaving it on" so he can see how it runs in his environment (and since its only a 34 bottle unit, not a great deal bigger than a 28) before he spends more money on an ETC and active system. Figured it doesn't hurt to test it out first and then adjust accordingly, and by adjust accordingly i mean purchase an ETC, active system, more beads, or whatever he needs. Appreciate the correction though, seems like I'm learning something new on a daily basis here

also, I plug the drain on mine and leave a bag of beads above it to soak up any of the condensation that drips on it. Others here might have much better suggestions for that, but it works for me and I figure it helps stabilize the humidity, although that is for a TE unit, not a compressor. If this is a bad idea, please let me know as well so I can fix it and make it better

 

[jwyatt55]

A compressor unit will suck the moisture out of the air but if you don't need it to cool then it should work just fine as a humi

 

[karma67]

I have a compressor unit (44 bottle Magic Chef). I picked it up cheap from Craigslist, because the cooling unit doesn't cool. I live in Colorado, which has, effectively, no humidity. I use Kitty litter for the humidity control, and run it for about 15 minutes a day just to move the air around some, and disperse the humidity (the bottom compartment shows about a 2-3% difference from the top of the compartment to the bottom). Other than that, I leave it not running, and hold a pretty consistent 68-70/70.

 

[TheMadScientist]

Some of you probably saw my thread on the AMAZING Christmas gift I received this year. I have to say I was completely blown away. But, after doing a bit more research on the type of wine fridge I received, I realized that it was a Compressor type fridge.

Here's my thinking: I live in Milwaukee where it is a reasonable temp for most of the year (except for the summer). I'm not exactly sure if I will need to turn this thing on or not. My first thought is that i will not need to. I can keep it in a basement for a while until I move into a new place in July. I guess I don't know what I need to do if I do indeed need to turn it on.

I have gotten some feedback on this from some awesome brothers already (Thanks guys!) but I am just looking for extra input/information from as many brothers that want to chime in.

Thanks guys!

Ok I have your solution.....give me the wine cooler, and I will help you build a coolidor. It will look nice full of wine in my new winter smoking room. :grin:

 

[Jfire]

Leave it off and place 2 lbs of beads in it. Does the new place have a basement? If not return it for a TE unit. Why people choose to use active humidification in any of these units boggles me. I get it that active will work. But it's too much off a pain IMO.

 

[orangedog]

My recommendation is to use more beads/packs than you think are required and leave it on all the time at first and see how it does and then adjust accordingly. There are a lot of factors that can impact the humidity (like how full it is and the ambient temp/rh in the room).

Yes on both points. Lots of beads/kitty litter/whatever your faith and/or budget lead you to. Also the "lot of factors" comment is spot on and can lead to hours of google surfing. I think it was Chas from Chasidor who did the tests on shelves with lids inside fridges. I have a 35 bottle compressor unit with three drawers and two shelves. I use glass lids for the drawers and each drawer has its own bead supply. RH stays pretty steady even when the unit runs - that said it is also pretty full.

Beads, beads and more beads.

Also, make sure if/when you have the unit turned on that there is a place for condensation to gather. A/C units can accumulate water when turned on and usually have a drip pan etc. Not sure how your model is set up, but when I used the 28-bottle wine fridges, I left the drain plug alone and if there were any condensation, it would drip out into the drain pan like it was meant to. Some people plug up the drip line to keep the humi as air-tight as possible, I personally think that is a mistake. A little drain line that leads out the back doesn't do a thing if you have beads and some cedar to help keep a consistent Rh.

Of course you can "plug up" the drain line when not plugged in, but if you need to run the unit, I would keep it open and use the drip line. If you have enough beads, I think you should be okay but don't be alarmed if the Rh moves a bunch right away. I think all wine fridge units go through some ups/downs until the temp is consistent and the beads have a little time to stabilize the Rh.

Agree here as well. I ran a line from the drain hole back to a bottom bead collection pan. Depending upon how heavy you go with the beads, you could probably get away with not plugging it, but I haven't tried that. If your ambient humidity is too low, it could suck it dry. But I'm speculating.

One thing I'm not speculating on is this - if you run it, a compressor *should* create more condensation than a TE because it will run longer. Be VERY careful that you do not let boxes, drawers. cigars, cello - ANYTHING - touch the back of the unit inside. This isn't as hard as it sounds, but if that condensation makes its way into your cigars, even with a fan system it will likely lead to mold.

A compressor unit will suck the moisture out of the air but if you don't need it to cool then it should work just fine as a humi

I've found that with drawers and boxes, the drop in RH isn't that steep and with the unit sufficiently full and with enough beads, the recovery is pretty quick. It helps if the room you're keeping it in isn't too far off what you want to store at. For example, I keep mine at about 65 degrees, but the room it is in is kept at 73 degrees... less than a 10 degree spread is good.

If not return it for a TE unit. Why people choose to use active humidification in any of these units boggles me. I get it that active will work. But it's too much off a pain IMO.

No question TE is better from an RH maintenance standpoint, but not sure that you should return it. You'll get more space for your $ with a compressor versus a TE. Agree, though, that active humidification in a wine fridge is overkill. I would add a fan or two (see if you can find the old glade fans for an easy fix). Stagnant air is not your friend.

Hope this helps. :bottle:

 

[Jfire]

From a cc guy about stagnant air? Not sure on that point. I think we both agree that our sealed boxes of certain cigars may not see circulated air for years. Tit for tat......
Not sure I agree on the space either. I have four units behind the bar. The only one with a giant molded space stuck on the inside bottom is the compressored fridge. The other 3(TE) have nothing but the fan mounted directly in the middle. The TE plate is in the outside back.

 

[orangedog]

From a cc guy about stagnant air? Not sure on that point. I think we both agree that our sealed boxes of certain cigars may not see circulated air for years. Tit for tat......

Well... ummm... yeah. Where is the "foot in mouth" emoticon?

How do I explain this one away... my "logic" goes as long as the air is circulating outside of the box you are good, just not inside the box... or maybe this, the air still circulates through all of my ziplock bags, just more slowly.

Ah screw it.

 

[Jfire]

I think we both agree stale over humidified air is the bad guy.

 

[pbibby]

I guess if I haven't clarified this I should say that I most likely will not have to run it except every once in a while.

Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk 2

 

[AlohaStyle]

Well... ummm... yeah. Where is the "foot in mouth" emoticon?

How do I explain this one away... my "logic" goes as long as the air is circulating outside of the box you are good, just not inside the box... or maybe this, the air still circulates through all of my ziplock bags, just more slowly.

Ah screw it.

LOL, Nice try Matt

 

[SurpriseMVP]

[/QUOTE]

I've found that with drawers and boxes, the drop in RH isn't that steep and with the unit sufficiently full and with enough beads, the recovery is pretty quick. It helps if the room you're keeping it in isn't too far off what you want to store at. For example, I keep mine at about 65 degrees, but the room it is in is kept at 73 degrees... less than a 10 degree spread is good.
:[/QUOTE]

73!? My Summer AC bills would easily exceed $1000 a month. I have acclimated my self to 79 degrees in the house.
I use TE coolers and keep them at 68. They only run in the summer.

 

[pbibby]

Thanks for all the information brothers!

Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk 2

 

[dscl]

I have a TE 28 bottle that I leave on and it stays pretty stable at 63-65rh, but I am using a combo of HCM beads and Heartfelt beads. Plan on switching the combo to just HCM and Boveda packs that I rotate and rehydrate to see if that is a better combo.

My recommendation is to use more beads/packs than you think are required and leave it on all the time at first and see how it does and then adjust accordingly. There are a lot of factors that can impact the humidity (like how full it is and the ambient temp/rh in the room).

Also, if you don't already have one, get a decent digital hygrometer so you know that you are getting accurate readings.

Sounds like your HCM/Heartfelt combo is running fine... Why are you changing it? Also how much of each are you using?

 

[MoJo]

I have a TE 28 bottle that I leave on and it stays pretty stable at 63-65rh, but I am using a combo of HCM beads and Heartfelt beads. Plan on switching the combo to just HCM and Boveda packs that I rotate and rehydrate to see if that is a better combo.

My recommendation is to use more beads/packs than you think are required and leave it on all the time at first and see how it does and then adjust accordingly. There are a lot of factors that can impact the humidity (like how full it is and the ambient temp/rh in the room).

Also, if you don't already have one, get a decent digital hygrometer so you know that you are getting accurate readings.

Sounds like your HCM/Heartfelt combo is running fine... Why are you changing it? Also how much of each are you using?

To see if I can improve it so it requires less maintenance.

Right now I use two 8 oz bags of hcm beads and probably about a half lb or so (not sure the exact amount) of heartfelt beads spread out throughout the Wineador