What's new

Homemade Rolling Table

Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Messages
14
Here is my setup. At some point I'd like to add drawers, but it's getting pretty heavy. A drawer on the left would be nice to catch the scraps under the Lieberman and a drawer on the right for rolling tools. I'm no woodworker, so it was a minor feat to get this much done.

uploadfromtaptalk1462050199271.jpg
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Messages
14
Thanks! Here is a pic of the type of press I built into the table. I haven't seen that done before, but I'm sure I'm not the first to do it. I figure it could fit 4 or 5 molds. In the pic you can see a black under the press.uploadfromtaptalk1462052688458.png
 
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Joined
Sep 1, 2015
Messages
2,640
Location
Central Maryland
thanks, I really do like it but, if you were to pack a couple of molds and, cracked down on them, wouldn't that top shelf rip out those 2 screws holding the shelf on. If the auger bit didn't pop out of the top shelf first?

it seems the auger nut should be under the top shelf and, the pressing section may be in need of additional support. Is anyone seeing this?
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Messages
14
uploadfromtaptalk1462055735031.jpg

I've only done 1 mold at a time. The weak points are on the side (circled in red). I didn't want screws showing, so it's screwed underneath. Whenever I crank down on the screw the top board flexes. A dove tail joint would be a good solution.
 
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Joined
Sep 1, 2015
Messages
2,640
Location
Central Maryland

I see your fastener system which should be weaker then screwing straight down but, perhaps some straps of steal and bolts might could beef it up.
One mold, you may not have the need. you know?

These normally get mounted on the other side no?

 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Messages
14
I put it on top because it was easier to get a screwdriver on it. Also, if it were mounted below then a hole the size of the housing would have to be drilled in so it could countersink.
 
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
Joined
Sep 1, 2015
Messages
2,640
Location
Central Maryland
You would have wanted to mount it before installing the shelf. you know? and yes, the bolt housing would need a countersinking. without a large bit, you could knock out material with a smaller bit around the hole you have already. again, there might not be the need.
 
Rating - 100%
35   0   0
Joined
Apr 6, 2016
Messages
538
Location
Lucedale
I'm with @Marc L that the auger nut needing to be on the bottom side of the stationary shelf. Also I would have cut the top shelf in half and make the vertical board go all the way to the top. Then use a Kregg jig to attach the shelf to the vertical board. It would give you a horizontal attachment which would be stronger when pressing things down on the cigar molds. Also the Kregg jig would hide all the fasteners. You can pick it up a Lowes.
Saying all that I do think it's a very nice work station.
 
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Mar 15, 2016
Messages
578
I really like this idea of the screw jack built into the desk.

To reduce the flexing of the top board you could add a strip of 3/4" plywood (or oak or poplar) on both the front and the back side as shown. Cut them as deep as possible maybe 1 1/2" to 2 ". It could be attached with screws (and glue) from either the bottom or the top. The front one could be slightly recessed to give a neat appearance. These would act as I-beams to stop the flexing.

stiff.jpg

Once this is installed run some simple glue blocks front to back using wood glue. Strong like a bull.

glue block.jpg
 
Last edited:
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Joined
Apr 24, 2016
Messages
14
uploadfromtaptalk1462117289494.jpguploadfromtaptalk1462117301157.jpguploadfromtaptalk1462117306489.jpg

For the few molds I use there really isn't a need to reinforce, but if I were to do it again I would probably change the design. Even when I crank down I don't see separation on the joints. But, I do hear the wood creeking.
 
Top