Questions on building a deck

[Highlander]

Ok, I have a plan to build a free standing deck in my back yard. I can't decide though if I should sink the posts in the ground or just let it rest on concrete footers. It will be fairly low to the ground and about 15x15 is on size. I'm in nc, so it only gets cold for a month or 2.

Any one a deck expert?

 

[L8A]

My support posts are in concrete in the ground but i would think the pre-made concrete footers for support would be fine.

 

[DeeDubya]

Ok, I have a plan to build a free standing deck in my back yard. I can't decide though if I should sink the posts in the ground or just let it rest on concrete footers. It will be fairly low to the ground and about 15x15 is on size. I'm in nc, so it only gets cold for a month or 2.

Any one a deck expert?

I've built a few decks and it will vary depending on the soil. Try to avoid wood-to-ground contact even though it's treated lumber. Really soft soil might require an 18"x18" pad but usually the 8"x8" footers which are notched for the trusses will work just fine. Just set the outside truss in from the edge about 12" - 18" so that the footers are hidden when you trim out the perimeter.

2 - 2 x 10 trusses with 2 x 8 joists on 16" centers decked with 2 x 6 should be adequate for your 15' x 15' deck. This combination will put the top of the deck at 24" above grade unless you dig the footers in. If it's in the sun I would seriously consider using a composite material like "Timbertech", "Veranda" or similar to avoid cracking and warping over time.

Came back to say that if you use nails, be sure they are "hot-dipped" galvanized, ring-shank (3"). Deck screws are a better choice, but unless you go with stainless (yes, gulp), they are going to rust though in a few years. Even the ceramicoat kind won't last.

 

[Highlander]

It's primarily in the shade in a wooded area. There is a slight slope so I'll have to do some leveling for the pads on one end. Soil is pretty hard.

thanks1

 

[Greyghost]

Great advice from DeeDubya, what he said. And highly recommend the screws.

 

[smelvis]

I'd just bury the pre made support blocks a hair above ground and plant whatever sort of ground cover you have in you area around it.

 

[Slow Burn]

we always use 3' x 12" sonatubes exposing a few inches above grade

there are 2 types of post brackets you can use on top... ones inserted into the wet concrete, or ones where you will have to drill an anchor bolt into

use 6 x 6 posts coming up to your triple (or double) girder and your joists lay on top of that.

there are a few company's i know of that will put their posts into the concrete... this makes the job easier and go faster, but there is alot of speculation about the life of a post in concrete...

 

[Boppa-Wasch]

Go with screws!! If you ever have to replace a board, the screws will make it much easier. You can "sink" the screws just below the surface and still be able to access them in the future.

 

[VillageIdiot]

Just a suggestion on the deck screws. Use Hex or Torx head drives. I found out the hard way. Phillips head strips way too easily.

 

[Highlander]

Yep, will use screws that was the plan all along. Not planing on adding any shrubs as there isn't a lot of sun in the area and it stays covered with leaves most of the time. Hmmm if I go the drilled into the concrete bracket route, it means I'll need a new drill.

TOOL TRIP!!! (I'd buy a chop saw too but it would ruin my deck budget, lol)

 

[Fox]

It's primarily in the shade in a wooded area. There is a slight slope so I'll have to do some leveling for the pads on one end. Soil is pretty hard.

thanks1

I built my last two using Trex. I used concrete pyramids because the soil here is very hard and stable. To ensure a level deck, I put my threaded post brackets on 5/8" all-thread, with a grade 5 nut and washer up against the pyramid. By using the nut as a jacking mechanism I was able to fine tune the deck to make it perfectly level and can keep it that way long into the future. I love having maintenance free decks. . .:cbig:

 

[Highlander]

Well, just went to the county web site for code limits. No problem there. (12" deep concrete footers etc..) but - I'm supposed to pull a permit and get inspections.

(mumbles something about the gov't and freedom...)

 

[Wink]

Not an expert on this kind of thing but from experience I put up a 7' fence in which I placed my post into the concrete. All was good for about a month or two then they started bending and warping this was even after I bolted/ reinforced them with hex bolts, luckily they didn't bend too much or I would of had to break the concrete then install new post. Just keep this in mind, I used pressure treated wood which are a custom to doing just that! Good luck, post us some pics!

 

[Renavatio]

Hey bud, PM me if you want my phone number. I build decks on a regular basis, Eon, trex, composite and PT. I would be more then happy to help ya out with any questions you might have.

 

[Highlander]

Thanks!

 

[Slow Burn]

Well, just went to the county web site for code limits. No problem there. (12" deep concrete footers etc..) but - I'm supposed to pull a permit and get inspections.

(mumbles something about the gov't and freedom...)

the permit and inspection is more for your (homeowner) safety... they need to make sure the zoning is appropriate and the manner in which you build it is safe for long term use! this way there is no problem down the line when u go to sell and you find out your not allowed to notch 4x4 posts or your footing was too small and the deck is sinking or you had no idea the syp would rot aluminum behind your ledger.... etc

 

[Highlander]

What I left out was, If I pull a permit, I then have to submit plans etc.. to the homeowners association architectural review committee for approval as well. This means it pretty much has to be professionally built and in a certain amount of time. (like 2 weeks). They have been pretty good (bad?) about declining do-it-yourself projects unfortunately. (I'd guess that a pro would charge 5 to 6 grand to build it. Can't afford that)

We live in the very back of the development on a cul-de-sac that backs up the woods. Where I'm putting the deck will not at any time e visible from the street which is usually the big catch all. I will build it to code, made easier by a brochure on the local gov't web site explaining it. I just need to build it over time so I can pay for it as I build it. (maybe a month or so)

Sigh... great ideas, killed by the economy again. (pays been cut 2/3'ds in the last 2 years)