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Sweet drybox idea

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Probably y'all do this already (except Gdaddy) and I do it, but only just consciously realized that I do it:
For drybox purposes, keep one super-cedary pro box for each vitola you favor, and use that for your dry box. So for example I drybox my petite coronas in a Cohiba Siglo II box, corona cordas in an Upmann corona gorda box, my robustos in a Trinidad Viglia box, and so forth. One really cedar-stankin wood box for each vitola.
 
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Probably y'all do this already (except Gdaddy) and I do it, but only just consciously realized that I do it:
For drybox purposes, keep one super-cedary pro box for each vitola you favor, and use that for your dry box. So for example I drybox my petite coronas in a Cohiba Siglo II box, corona cordas in an Upmann corona gorda box, my robustos in a Trinidad Viglia box, and so forth. One really cedar-stankin wood box for each vitola.
Do you separate blends or only dry box on blend per vitola size at a time?
 
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I had a bad experience with cedar. During a move a year ago my humidor got warm then cool again. Apparently moisture came out of the wood(evaporated) and was later reabsorbed in the cigars once it cooled off again in the air conditioning. The cigars were so bitter from the cedar I had to throw them in the trash.

My understanding is that cedar was initially used to deter tobacco beetles not as a flavor enhancement. I prefer all glass with Boveda packs now and really want nothing to do with cedar. However, the cigars are well dried before putting them in the jar with the Boveda pack.

As far as treating fresh rolls, I like what Yanko at Tabanero does. The newly rolled cigars are placed open in an air conditioned room for a period of 2 weeks to dry out. The cigars then rest open in their large humidor for another 90 days. (some even longer)

It's amazing how much water these new rolled cigars are holding when they are newborns. After a few days they feel pretty dry to the touch but there's plenty of water hiding deep inside. This can make for a pretty bitter/sour smoke if not given enough time.
 
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I can't imagine you'd use anything but white cedar. I'm not a big fan of cedar myself though, it pays big to get to know how to set up those smokes we make right. very sensitive to absorbing stuff.
 
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Only cause I bought the bike, so I admire lookin at the box. There for about a year and a half, Indian shipped me out unexpected bling. I forget what all this box had in it. A plaque I think. Neatest bling was a fancy brass belt buckle.

The actual Indian Motorcycle Cigars come in this not too bad lookin box, by the way:





... but I figure that box wouldn't dry gars out worth a bugfart in a gale
 
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Only cause I bought the bike, so I admire lookin at the box. There for about a year and a half, Indian shipped me out unexpected bling. I forget what all this box had in it. A plaque I think. Neatest bling was a fancy brass belt buckle.

The actual Indian Motorcycle Cigars come in this not too bad lookin box, by the way:





... but I figure that box wouldn't dry gars out worth a bugfart in a gale
The Indian box is very cool!!
The top box appears to be plywood, which if it's regular plywood it contains urea-formaldehyde glue or if the more expensive marine plywood it contains a water-resistant phenol-formaldehyde glue and anti-fungal additives such as Xyligen (Furmecyclox) that could leach into the cigars. Particle board would be another one to avoid as well.
 
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After dic'd around with all sorts of humidors, cooladors, wineadors I finally found the most simple answer... glass.

The advantage of a glass humidor is a clear winner in all regards.
1. There's no leaching of any contaminant or flavor into the cigar. It's inert.
2. It's extremely airtight. Easiest way to control humidity.
3. It's VERY inexpensive. (jar in photo is $5.95 plus the Boveda pack is $3.95)
4. Boveda packs allow for precise 'state of the art' humidity control. 'Set it and forget it' foolproof and accurate performance.

Humidor.jpg
 
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Glass seems like a good idea but I really love what a pungent cedar box imparts to a stick, or what I imagine it does. And when I use a matching vitola it takes it to the next level of max contact to the wood and to the other sticks. And I like the way it looks, the sticks all snug and safe. Plus they're getting some of the mojo (spirit, aroma) of the awesome Cuban sticks that pre-habitatted the box.

How is a humidity-controlled sealed space different from a humidor?
 
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Glass seems like a good idea but I really love what a pungent cedar box imparts to a stick, or what I imagine it does. And when I use a matching vitola it takes it to the next level of max contact to the wood and to the other sticks. And I like the way it looks, the sticks all snug and safe. Plus they're getting some of the mojo (spirit, aroma) of the awesome Cuban sticks that pre-habitatted the box.

How is a humidity-controlled sealed space different from a humidor?
If you really love what a cedar box does then, by all means, use it. A lot of beginners seem to believe that a cedar humidor/box is a necessity. It's not. It's a tradition that's been used for many years but not for the reasons that most people think. If things aren't monitored properly and temps or RH should fluctuate the cedar can become your worst enemy.

"How is a humidity-controlled sealed space different from a humidor?"

They both set out to do a specific job but the traditional 'humidor' as we know it has many flaws that can be problematic especially the leaky lid.

A 'humidor'... (definition from Wiki) My comments in blue.

The interior is typically a veneer of Spanish cedar, which possesses the following desirable characteristics for cigar storage: Many of the veneers are paper thin and are very limited as to its designated function.

1. It holds more moisture than most woods, so it helps maintain humidity. Important to realize, it can also release this moisture back to the cigar impart an awful acrid, bitter taste if temps and rh are not monitored closely.

2. It is not prone to "warping" or "cupping" in high humidity.
But they do "warp and cup". The seal of the lid is an area that is an ongoing problem in many, many humidors. You need to perform the 'dollar bill' test or the ' flashlight test' to make sure it is a good seal. There are tons of problems that can cause a 'leaky lid'. A well built humidor with a proper fit lid can be quite costly and still warp in the future. On the other hand, glass is very inexpensive and provides a perfect maintenance free, tight seal that is a far better design especially when combined with a Boveda humidity control. It's a no-brainer.

3. It imparts its aroma to cigars. For the same reason, some cigars are wrapped in Spanish-cedar sheets before they are sold.
(Not everyone likes the taste) Glass imparts nothing. If you want a cedar aroma put in a stick or two of cedar. In a cedar lined humidor you have NO choice.

4. It can repel tobacco beetles, pinhead-sized pests which can ruin entire stocks of cigars by eating the tobacco and laying eggs, causing further infestation. They can also be discouraged by ensuring the humidor does not get hotter than 20 °C (68 °F). The beetle eggs usually only hatch at around 25 °C (77 °F) although there are also instances where they will hatch at cooler temperatures if the humidity is too high. (Eggs that are already on the leaf are already there in either cedar or glass.) The cedar prevents any "further infestation" but doesn't stop what's already in there. The tight seal prevents further infestation in glass.

So a glass sealed jar can be FAR better for the designed interest of maintaining cigar in a perfectly sealed container at a fraction of the cost. It's a win/win across the board.
 
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Thanks.
But to be clear, I'm talking about dryboxing, i.e. where I put the cigars to dry out for two weeks after I roll them before I stick'em in a humi for conditioning. My understanding here is that you're talking about using those glass containers as a humidor.

I reckon the concept of dryboxing is a bit vague, because who knows what the humidity is in there, day to day. So maybe it's a bogus concept. Seems to work, though. When I take them from the box and put them in the humi they feel a lot drier than they were the day I rolled them; and I'd rather not put "damp" sticks into the humi. So I drybox'em.
 
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Thanks.
But to be clear, I'm talking about dryboxing, i.e. where I put the cigars to dry out for two weeks after I roll them before I stick'em in a humi for conditioning. My understanding here is that you're talking about using those glass containers as a humidor.

I reckon the concept of dryboxing is a bit vague, because who knows what the humidity is in there, day to day. So maybe it's a bogus concept. Seems to work, though. When I take them from the box and put them in the humi they feel a lot drier than they were the day I rolled them; and I'd rather not put "damp" sticks into the humi. So I drybox'em.
It all depends on how dry your box is... really.

The only way to know is by using a hygrometer. I place mine out on the table in an air conditioned room of around 74 degrees. I get around 50% rh this time of year. Let them sit for 2 weeks and then a good way to see how dry they are is put them in the sealed container with the hygrometer and see where the rh lands.(if you do this in a wooden humidor it will tell you rh of the interior of box and the cigars(not good). You want just the rh of the cigars and glass will work perfectly since it holds no moisture. In less than an hour it will reveal the rh of the group of say...10 cigars. (one cigar will of course take longer)

If they show let's say... 72% rh they are not dry enough to go in the humi yet. Back out on the table until they can register a number somewhere near the Boveda pack of choice... let's say 65%. Once the cigars can sustain 65% all on their own THEN they are ready to go into the humidor with the Boveda pack.

This is really easy to do and the only sure way to know if they are ready. You can't go by feel and expect accuracy. You don't want a group of cigars that are overly damp in a sealed container.

Hope this helps!
 
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It does help but I still feel a bit vague: I don't have AC, and the ambient RH is typically 80+ this time of year.
 
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It does help but I still feel a bit vague: I don't have AC, and the ambient RH is typically 80+ this time of year.
If left out on the table the cigars will reach an equilibrium with whatever the air in the room is. If your room is 80+ rh then so will your cigars. Laying them out in the room is NOT going to "dry box" them below the ambient rh of 80+.
 
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