N2Advnture said:
If you build it they will come!!!
I would suggest carefully laying out what furniture and shelving/built-ins you want. If you mail me a sketch with dims, I will cad it up for you. You can use typical leather chair measurements (check out Layzboy's site for the type of chairs you would want).
Don't forget to lay out exhaust fans. I think Broan (sp?) just came out with the world's quietest bathroom exhausts that would do the trick if located about the seating area.
~M
A couple of things of note in this post.
The exhaust fan... I'm not sure if it's Broan or not, but I've been doing a lot of research lately on "Building Science", or building a better, more efficient house, and there have been exhaust fans that are practically silent and which run continually. Not sure if their CFM is large enough for a smoking room, but nevertheless, they're worth researching.
Mark beat me too it! If his lazy ass decides he doesn't want to help, I too can draw this up. One piece of advice would be that no matter what your architect says, remember a vapor barrier! Take it from me, I have been working in architecture for a while now and most of my peers would rather not have to deal with designing this properly if they're not made to.
Things to keep in mind:
1) your vapor barrier should never be punctured if at all possible. If you must puncture it, seal the hole with an inpenetrable, approved water penetration sealer.
2) Consider a double wall system with the VB on the outside of the interior wall on 1" rigid insulation. The reasoning for a double wall is twofold
A) Creating a min. 1" wide airspace between walls keeping the moisture that builds up on the plastic sheeting away from the exterior finished wall
B) Preventing the sheetrock on the exterior wall from being nailed through the plastic and therefore removing the added penetrations of the screws that would hold the boards on.
C) Steel studs are a must for the interior wall! The base channel is perfectly plumb for ease of sealing to the floor and obviously the steel will not rot as basic stud grade wood will. (I don't suggest Wolmanized lumber for your studs because 2x's that are wolmanized tend to twist and warp during the process causing a difficulty sealing to the floor or between each stud and the finishes.
D) Spanish cedar is obviously something to stress, though it will mostlikely be a large expense. Most builders will just put standard T&G cedar planking on the walls/ceiling. I am not an expert on long term aging conditions, but I would assume that the normal (yellow?) cedar would impart a foul flavor if cigars were left in its proximity for a long while. Plus, most B&M shops I've been in that are 5+ y/o tend to smell a bit musty. I THINK that it's this type of cedar shelving and wall boards that start to get funky after time. I don't know much about wood, but this is all I can find that would get like this.
Hope this is enough info for you! Enjoy and remember to have fun and be aware that your house will take 50% more time than you think it will to build!!
