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BOTL UPCOMING MAINTENANCE
Hi Everyone, as mentioned in my introduction post, BOTL needs quite a bit of updating, patching and whatever else I might come across. Over the next few weekends BOTL may be unreachable on occasion as I do migrations or updates, etc. Just be patient - we'll be back! I'll generally try to keep these maintenances until later in the evenings.
Wineador not cooling
- Thread starter daleo8803
- Start date
Newair has great customer service. Before you call though you may check to see if there is a filter for the fan that circulates air over the cooling fins. I'm assuming you do not have the compressor type cooler. You may also check to make sure there is no build up of dust on the fins.
The circulating fan is small and you do not get sufficient air circulation so you may consider using a separate fan to blow fresh air over the back of the unit, good air circulation and cooling the plate fins is essential. Do not remove the cover on the back of the unit while the power is on. The fins on the circuit board have power to them and are a shock hazard (don't ask me how I know).
The circulating fan is small and you do not get sufficient air circulation so you may consider using a separate fan to blow fresh air over the back of the unit, good air circulation and cooling the plate fins is essential. Do not remove the cover on the back of the unit while the power is on. The fins on the circuit board have power to them and are a shock hazard (don't ask me how I know).
On top of checking the screen filter on the back of the unit, try blowing off the Peltier block. They don't do well if they have dust build up on them. Might be a bad Peltier but I'd start with the easy stuff.
I was never very happy with the factory thermostat so I wire mine up to a STC-1000 to bypass it.
I was never very happy with the factory thermostat so I wire mine up to a STC-1000 to bypass it.
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I got my Haier 18 bottle secondhand. It had dead power. But even after replacing the 12vdc power to the fans and new thermostat trigger, is never any good at cooling when it gets too hot inside the house. It uses basically 2 computer fans cooling via heat sink ( just like a CPU cooler ) My experience is the electro-thermo style just can't combat higher summer temps. That's just me. Other's experience may vary.
I moved it away from the window and just leave it unplugged at this point as a glorified humidor. It's still my main cigar store and I make sure to keep the RH down and it seems fine.
Yours is new, so you should definitely call customer service.
I moved it away from the window and just leave it unplugged at this point as a glorified humidor. It's still my main cigar store and I make sure to keep the RH down and it seems fine.
Yours is new, so you should definitely call customer service.
Craig Mac
BoM 4/10 7/11 12/14
I think there is some info in this thread, I remember twenty5 having to replace some parts and think it was in this thread somewhere http://www.botl.org/threads/wine-cooler-101.35811/
@daleo8803
I think you need to replace your cooling unit. I did a guide on another site I used to frequent some time ago.
What youll need:
1 Needle nose wire stripper
Phillips Head screwdriver (pc nerds can use your ESD safe anti static, though not necessary)
Electric Tape
First step is to remove the back panel
With the back panel removed you now have access to the cooling unit (below) and circuit board (above)
Disconnect the remaining 2 and 3 pin fan headers from the circuit board (left side) and cut the positive (red) and negative (black) wires as they are soldered onto the board. Cut these wires close to the cooling unit, not the board.
Now you may remove the cooling kit. To remove the cooling kit, only two screws need to be removed, they are located on the left and right sides, behind the two fans
Toss out the old unit, line up the new one and put the two screws you just removed back in. Splice the red and black wires using your pliers and tape.
Reconnect all of your fan headers. Black wire with white clip to NTC1 port (vertical). Red and Black fan wire w/red clip to white fan headers (horizontal).
Tidy up if you like
Reload and stabilize (room temp is 75 in this pic)
Final step, relax and have a smoke!
I think you need to replace your cooling unit. I did a guide on another site I used to frequent some time ago.
"Just wanted to post a helpful thread in case anyone else runs into this issue. So a littler over a week ago the cooling unit on my New Air 280E wineador crapped out on me. I posted this thread for help and received various feedback:
After speaking to Air & Water (the distributor) I learned that the cooling unit had stopped working. Only the cooling unit needed to be replaced; the circuit board was in fine working order. They assessed that this was the case because the lights and fans were still working but the temp wasnt dropping. Pretty simple really.
Because I was covered under my 3 year warranty they agreed to send the replacement parts, I just had to pay shipping.
The parts arrived a few days later, all one solid piece with all of the fans connected etc.:
After speaking to Air & Water (the distributor) I learned that the cooling unit had stopped working. Only the cooling unit needed to be replaced; the circuit board was in fine working order. They assessed that this was the case because the lights and fans were still working but the temp wasnt dropping. Pretty simple really.
Because I was covered under my 3 year warranty they agreed to send the replacement parts, I just had to pay shipping.
The parts arrived a few days later, all one solid piece with all of the fans connected etc.:
What youll need:
1 Needle nose wire stripper
Phillips Head screwdriver (pc nerds can use your ESD safe anti static, though not necessary)
Electric Tape
First step is to remove the back panel
With the back panel removed you now have access to the cooling unit (below) and circuit board (above)
Disconnect the remaining 2 and 3 pin fan headers from the circuit board (left side) and cut the positive (red) and negative (black) wires as they are soldered onto the board. Cut these wires close to the cooling unit, not the board.
Now you may remove the cooling kit. To remove the cooling kit, only two screws need to be removed, they are located on the left and right sides, behind the two fans
Toss out the old unit, line up the new one and put the two screws you just removed back in. Splice the red and black wires using your pliers and tape.
Reconnect all of your fan headers. Black wire with white clip to NTC1 port (vertical). Red and Black fan wire w/red clip to white fan headers (horizontal).
Tidy up if you like
Reload and stabilize (room temp is 75 in this pic)
Final step, relax and have a smoke!
