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Making Cheap Chinese Humidors Work

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This is a project I've taken on a couple times, but never with the intent to do a photo writeup.

I've done three humidors prior to this, and the guys that have them say they work perfectly, so I figured I'd share my process with everyone.

I received a glasstop humidor from a fellow BOTL, Agentskull as a noob gift and my intent was to "fix" it and pay it forward.

I bought another humidor, essentially the same one but without the glass top. I'm starting with this one as it's slightly more simple than the glasstop and hopefully I can learn a bit while doing it, before I apply everything ive tried into my final project.



Pretty standard cheap China humidor

Step 1 - Separate lid from box. 4 Phillips head screws and it's off.



Step 2 Peel the felt texture paper off the backing of the base.



Step 3 "Punch" the base out. Well, literally, make a fist and punch the base out from each corner. Doesn't take much force, but concentrate the force on the edges so you don't break the super thin pressboard base.







Here you can see just how thin the "Spanish Cedar Lining" is.... It's a super thin veneer that really doesn't provide the benefits of Spanish cedar.

Step 4 Lid Disassembly

You'll want some sort of wedge to open a gap in the "Smart Seal" lid *i.e. No Seal Lid* This can be a chisel as shown, a nail, screwdriver, whatever. Pull back the slat on the lid that has the nails closest together and stick the wedge between the seal piece and the lid.

"smartseal"



See the two pin nails in the pic below, this is the piece to start with.




Use a slim file as shown, or a bare hacksaw blade, to cut through the pins.



Step 5. Once you've cut through the pins on the first slat, remove it and set it aside. You can label its position on the backside of the slat if you don't have the space to lay it out in reassembly position.



After you remove all the slats, take a pliers and pull the pins and pin remnants from the lid and slats.
 
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Had some time to play with this today.

This is the first time I've done a cedar lining. The humidors that I've done prior to this were slightly thicker walled glasstops, so sealing the base, glass and lid seal were all that was needed to make em work.

Measure and cut



Test fit (next time I'll do mitered corners, didn't think about it until after I made my cuts, and I don't have enough wood to do it twice)



Cut the lining to height (5/16" below the rim of the lower box) to clear the lid seal. Again, next time I'll do this differently as well and use the liner as the seal, removing the factory seal on the lid. Also, the good seal for the base (Lexan)



Squirt a moderately generous bead of silicone around the perimeter of the factory base. You want a bit to squeeze out into the box to seal against the Lexan



Replace the base in the box and place the Lexan on top, pressing around the edges to help seal the edges of the Lexan



Replace the inner lining pieces (make sure you label them on the backside so you know where they go) pressing them tightly against the Lexan. Wood glued to the humidor's walls and clamped for the glue to dry.

 
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If theres only two things you do to help seal up your cheap Chinese humidor, its the lexan (or plexiglass-i prefer to work with Lexan) base insert and this:



Glue the seal pieces tightly against the lid. You'll see gaps open up between all the mitered joints which shows how loosely fitted the pieces are. Im gonna try something different on my next one.

Here you can see the difference. Gently let the lid down and it stops due to friction of the seal



But with just a finger's pressure, it closes tightly



Im gonna let it season and check back in a week or two. Then I'll go to part two, the glasstop with front mount hygrometer. Ive learned a lot from these projects, hope yhat you got something out of them as well.

If anyone has an unwanted cheap Chinese humidor, I'll pay shipping or trade cigars. Still learning, but each attempt gets better. Already have a target for this one and the next glass top, but if I can get my hands on more, I will continue to seek out deserving botls. I'm not building these for sale. I will do yours if you dont have the tools or time.
 
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Nacho Daddy

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now that it is fully disassembled,it should fit nicely in your fireplace/wood stove.enjoy using it for kindling,and hope that there are no poisonous fumes from whatever they used to stain it.
this is the best use of this Chinese item,and what it was truly made for...........
 
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Bump. Project portion is complete.

Now on to testing.

There is never a time or a place where applying water directly to wood is appropriate. Don't do it. That is not "seasoning" a humidor. Especially these cheap things. The "cedar lining" is literally paper thin and it's over pressboard/mdf which is a sponge to water, and expands similarly. Very quick way to ruin your wooden box.

I've relined with impermeable material along the base, and 1/4" Spanish cedar on the sides. Never did measure the thickness of the lid... if this fails, might be an avenue to pursue.

So, here it is.



I dropped in two Xikar gel jars and a hygrometer to let it season. I'll check back in a week or two and see where we're at. If I have to add a saucer of DW, I will, but the ambient RH has been greater than 70 for about 10 weeks now. If not longer.
 
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Can you explain what the purpose of the Lexan is? Is it just to make the bottom a little more impermeable to moisture loss?
Exactly. Note how thin the base is, and its pressboard, so its pretty porous.

eta: The first cheap humidor I worked on was a medium-large glasstop like this

I siliconed around the glass, seemed to work well through the spring and summer, but didn't hold humidity in the winter. (usually 80-100% humidity from April to October, then 20-40% November to March)

My next try was to throw some small screws in the lid seal pieces to get a bit better interference fit. Helped a little bit, but I had a disproportionate amount of humidification materials in the box and while shooting for 70% (at the time, no longer my goal) I was sitting around 64-66%.

I didnt' know how thin the base was, but once I started looking for other potential leaks I measured and realized the base could be right up there with the unsealed glass as a major leak. I threw a piece of lexan in the bottom of that humidor and didn't even silicone it in place initially. Pretty much overnight the hygrometer was reading 72+ and I removed about half the humidification materials I had in there, leaving just 1/2lb HF beads. It settled back to 69-71 and I did end up running some silicone along the edges inside the box.

Gave that one back to my brother in law and it's been working perfectly ever since. So back to answering your question, the base is a major leak source. I suppose if your desktop sits on a very flat surface like a glass desk and doesn't get moved, the loss may be negligible, but in this circumstance the humidor was on a wicker shelving unit and after sealing the glass, the base was a major souce of rh loss.
 
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Quick update on this one. Opened it for the first time last night. Hygrometer reading 64f and 70% rh.

Pulled the humidifiers out and closed it up.

Opened it tonight, still reading 70%

Now ambient rh is around 68, so I cant really say for sure its working, but I'm fairly certain it is. Dropped in a bundle of Famous house blends and a small bit of HF 65% beads (about 4oz). Will check back with it in another couple weeks. Might need to wait a bit longer for ambient humidity to drop before I claim victory

I'll try to get started on the glasstop version soon.
 
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mdwest

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Whats the all in cost?

I guess Im questioning.. if youre going to pay for a cheap humidor.... and then pay for additional components to upgrade the humidor.. and then have to invest a bunch of time in doing the upgrade...

why not just spend the extra money on the front end and buy something of higher quality to begin with?


If youre looking at a substantial difference in total cost... or you just enjoy projects like this... I get it... (Ive got less than $200 in my converted cabinet... its on par with the "tower of power".. which isnt anything special.. but.. retail on that is close to $1K.. so.. it was worth it to me to do a conversion rather than spend the $$$ on the ToP.. and I enjoyed the project...

but.. if there isnt a whole lot of cost difference vs end quality.. Im thinking thats a good bit of work.. to end up with a slightly improved small desk top..
 
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Whats the all in cost?

I guess Im questioning.. if youre going to pay for a cheap humidor.... and then pay for additional components to upgrade the humidor.. and then have to invest a bunch of time in doing the upgrade...

why not just spend the extra money on the front end and buy something of higher quality to begin with?


If youre looking at a substantial difference in total cost... or you just enjoy projects like this... I get it... (Ive got less than $200 in my converted cabinet... its on par with the "tower of power".. which isnt anything special.. but.. retail on that is close to $1K.. so.. it was worth it to me to do a conversion rather than spend the $$$ on the ToP.. and I enjoyed the project...

but.. if there isnt a whole lot of cost difference vs end quality.. Im thinking thats a good bit of work.. to end up with a slightly improved small desk top..
Well, some of the cost will be shared regardless of if you're using a cheapo or buying a quality desktop humidor. Hygrometer, humidification device are really the biggest expenses.

Just to note, I don't personally use these cheap Chinese humidors. I "fix" em and send them back out. In the end, a tupperdor is a much better choice.

Probably about $10 ish for the lexan
Maybe $1 in silicone and wood glue
$20-30ish in planed 1/4" Spanish Cedar
$30 for HF Beads
$20 for a quality hygrometer

I made this thread for as much to show the process I follow to get them to work, as much as to point out that these things are absolute garbage. I would not recommend anyone buy one, but if you have one, you can make it work.
 

mdwest

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Dont get me wrong.. I really enjoy projects like this (again, I converted/built my cabinet humidor)... was just wondering how much $$$ we're really talking about... assuming youre taking an archtypical $25 fifty count cbid special.. and only throwing another $40 or so into it (I dont count the cost of the beads and the hygrometer.. youre going to have to do that with any humidor.. whether its high quality or not..)... its really not a bad deal at all... $65 all in for something that seals up tight and works well.. and had the added benefit of looking nice (as opposed to a piece of tupperware, which you most likely wouldnt want to "display"... is actually still very inexpensive/affordable... and... if you like doing this sort of thing (I find projects like this relaxing and fun..).. all the better!
 
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