I would ASSuME, and take that for what it is worth, that so long as the tube says "100% Pure Slicone" you should be fine. If you have something for showers and bathrooms it is probably a silicone caulk and not just silicone.
Seasoning Humidor
- Thread starter jebloom22
- Start date
I'm no expert, but I can't imagine why that wouldn't be fine. What I used was a tube of silicone I picked up at the local pet store for repairing aquariums and all I did was make sure it said "100% Silicone". Which is kind of funny, because if mine was 100% silicone and yours is 100% silicone, makes no sense why one would be marketed FOR aquariums while the other specifically says not to use it in them.
Did a quick search online and found an aquarium forum where guys are using GE Window and Door 100% silicone Sealant for aquariums, so I can't imagine why it wouldn't work for our application.
But again, I'm no expert on silicone. I gave my wineador the sniff-test after sealing the drain with silicone (left the door open for 24 hours) while curing and didn't smell anything.
Did a quick search online and found an aquarium forum where guys are using GE Window and Door 100% silicone Sealant for aquariums, so I can't imagine why it wouldn't work for our application.
But again, I'm no expert on silicone. I gave my wineador the sniff-test after sealing the drain with silicone (left the door open for 24 hours) while curing and didn't smell anything.
Thanks for going the extra mile to look up that information. I do plan to use the silicone on the inside of the humidor as opposed to the outside. Because all of the glass is beveled, it shouldn't be too obvious from a cosmetic standpoint. I also think that although only the top window has some movement, that I should probably caulk all three windows just to be safe.
Also, I was playing with that analog-style front-mounted hygrometer. I pulled the battery (just to be safe) and dropped another one in. It automatically dropped from the incorrect reading of 74-76 RH to 50%. If you hold the button in, it supposedly resets. I did this and it went back up to the mid-high 70s. I'm not sure what that reset button is supposed to do, but after dumping the battery/energy again and re-inserting the battery, it went back to 50. I currently have it sitting in a boveda calibration kit to see if this thing is salvageable. Maybe the thing works after all.
Also, I was playing with that analog-style front-mounted hygrometer. I pulled the battery (just to be safe) and dropped another one in. It automatically dropped from the incorrect reading of 74-76 RH to 50%. If you hold the button in, it supposedly resets. I did this and it went back up to the mid-high 70s. I'm not sure what that reset button is supposed to do, but after dumping the battery/energy again and re-inserting the battery, it went back to 50. I currently have it sitting in a boveda calibration kit to see if this thing is salvageable. Maybe the thing works after all.
i have a xikar hygro w/ reset button - when you hold it down, it calibrates to 75%. i have another hygro that has a dial that you can +/- %. you probably have something similar to my xikar. good luck.
You might be on to something there. It has increments of 2%, and has a "sweet spot" that covers 68-72%, and when I hold the reset it goes just above that range. Certainly makes sense. If after 36 hours, it hasn't climbed to 74/76 in the boveda kit, I'll do the reset and hopefully the thing can be put to use.
To continue the saga...
I've applied the silicone to the lid window. It isn't gorgeous, but it should be functional.
Now to re-season. I put the hygrometer back into the hole in the front of the box, with the rubber sleeve around it (which is white and shaped like a gear). Then, just to ensure that I have a tight seal around the hygro, I held up a flashlight behind it. The following picture shows what I see. I can't imagine this being any tighter, in fact, it is quite difficult to get it all the way in as the rubber ring gets stuck. I twist and push to get it as snug as possible.
Notice that with the LED flashlight right up against the back of the hygro, that you can see a sliver of light coming through. It's hard to say whether or not it is a real gap, or if the light is coming through the white rubber band, but I guess I'm wondering if this is a lost cause or if it will just be a minor issue to monitor.
I've applied the silicone to the lid window. It isn't gorgeous, but it should be functional.
Now to re-season. I put the hygrometer back into the hole in the front of the box, with the rubber sleeve around it (which is white and shaped like a gear). Then, just to ensure that I have a tight seal around the hygro, I held up a flashlight behind it. The following picture shows what I see. I can't imagine this being any tighter, in fact, it is quite difficult to get it all the way in as the rubber ring gets stuck. I twist and push to get it as snug as possible.
Notice that with the LED flashlight right up against the back of the hygro, that you can see a sliver of light coming through. It's hard to say whether or not it is a real gap, or if the light is coming through the white rubber band, but I guess I'm wondering if this is a lost cause or if it will just be a minor issue to monitor.
This really only judges the seal of the lid. I would call it the "major seal". It really doesn't tell you one way or the other if you have minor leaks.
It's really hard to say on the hygrometer. Honestly I think it's a horrible design that just begs for a leak. What happens if you just lay the flashlight in the humidor, not right up against the hygro. Can you still see light around it?
Sorry man, it's just really hard to judge sitting here looking at pics on the interwebs. My guess is if you think it's in there snug it's probably sealed tight enough, but who knows?
Craig Mac
BoM 4/10 7/11 12/14
It sounds like the seal should be good enough then. Sometimes humidors can take a little more time than normal to stabilize between seasoning and settling once filled. What type of readings are you getting now?
If the flashlight is just lying inside, you don't really see that light coming through.
I put the water in just last night, so I won't know anything for at least a week.
Unfortunately, I cannot seal the hygro in because it's designed in such a way that it has to be removed every time you want to change the battery. I should have stuck with the non-windowed boxes, but I couldn't resist having the ability to check the RH without popping open the lid. Lesson learned.
Thanks for continuing to read. What's kinda sad is that with 3 wood humidors, my tupperware still works better than all.
I put the water in just last night, so I won't know anything for at least a week.
Unfortunately, I cannot seal the hygro in because it's designed in such a way that it has to be removed every time you want to change the battery. I should have stuck with the non-windowed boxes, but I couldn't resist having the ability to check the RH without popping open the lid. Lesson learned.
Thanks for continuing to read. What's kinda sad is that with 3 wood humidors, my tupperware still works better than all.
Craig Mac
BoM 4/10 7/11 12/14
Well I did say "simple test", lol. This drop test actually does test the entire humi and not just the lid, if there is a big enough leak in the back or side or something it will still "slam" shut. I don't think he really needs his humidor to be 100% air tight when closed though.....