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Check this super 7 out. I can explain the "vol kit" mod. Its a resistor and capacitor in parallel.
It decreases the characteristic "tone sink" as you adjust volume. At least that's what I believe. Never deployed it. I can get you the actual values or google it.
Also note, Your "push Pull " switch goes on tone, not vol, on this mod.

Oh man, I could have used that like yesterday... Now I have to dig back in and redo things all over. I have the push pull set as the tone knob too because that makes more sense to me, but unlike the wiring showing there, my push pull knob only has two spots to solder to on the bottom. Got things buttoned up and working other than that though. The push pull pot is the one on top to try and show the difference between mine and the one in the diagram.
 
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That's sharp looking Tele . So if I have this straight, it's working now? My push / pull is from AllParts. It looks like the switch in the diagram. It was $12.99
The two-leg one you have I've never seen before. Looks more like an interrupter. But if it's working now you're golden. ...
 
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That's sharp looking Tele . So if I have this straight, it's working now? My push / pull is from AllParts. It looks like the switch in the diagram. It was $12.99
The two-leg one you have I've never seen before. Looks more like an interrupter. But if it's working now you're golden. ...
It is working, just not the 7 sound mod I hoped to complete as well. Having the neck and bridge together is the goal behind that. The pot I got was a CTS pot from stewmac.com, a little more money and better ratings than the others that look like the one in the diagram but after talking to a friend I know who works for a custom guitar manufacturer, he says they are all pretty much the same. At least the tone knob will be easier to wire than the volume knob was.
 
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@BrewinHooligan Yeah, sounds good. You can always jump back in there later, ( and probably will . you'll see ! ) so keep a schematic of your new kit.
@BigSkySmoke "build from blanks" you mean schematics? My last two wireups were custom. I had a SSS Strat going to SSH , so adding the humbucker meant I would like a 500k pot. However the two remaining "SS" single prefer 250k ohm so I actually merged two schematics, ( "isolates" the Humbucker, but can still play with the others ) Keeping 250 across the board would have cut the bottom end off my Humbucker. 500 across the board would have cut some treble off the SS, I believe... Still on my first coffee here.

"build from blanks" bodies, na. I took a Japanese Strat clone and cut it into a "Whammy" stick once . Google that sometimes, or wikipedia "the Eighties"
I have one body I constructed from two pieces of wood harvested from a cabinet of a house that burnt down. I'll take a picture of it, but I'm not proud of it.
These days if I need a body I get one on eblay. Lots of guitar shops and private sellers listing authentic pulloffs, or freshly repainted knockoffs. The knockoffs do have a reputation for needing "fit adjustment". But nowdays manufacturer's realized it's more efficient to leave the holes for you to drill.

I have painted. That's my yellow.. on the one below. It needs refinished after all the work, but not now, it's fine for a guitar from the 70's. I just finished "badging" .

The repainted headstock. That's basecoat-clearcoat. This is before compounding down the clearcoat.
Kept shooting downstairs and then bringing it upstairs where it was warmer, to set.


 
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BigSkySmoke

Lanceros, Cowgirls and Burritos
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That's awesome. I forgot about that post. But I was at a lumber supplier and saw that they had blanks for guitars and thought of this thread. And I'm talking blocks...still needed yo be cut and shaped. But looked pretty cool. They also said they would cut 3/8" Spanish cedar to order. Which was the main reason I stopped in.
 
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That's awesome. I forgot about that post. But I was at a lumber supplier and saw that they had blanks for guitars and thought of this thread. And I'm talking blocks...still needed yo be cut and shaped. But looked pretty cool. They also said they would cut 3/8" Spanish cedar to order. Which was the main reason I stopped in.
LOL well there about a dozen different guys out there cutting them with CNC machines. It won't be nothing like @BrewinHooligan 's gorgeous Tele !
But maybe I'll flip it when I'm done. Work my way up to a real Tele body.
What you doing with Spanish Cedar? Gonna make some trays?
 
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Hate to whore up this thread. But it's called "show us your gear" so, here's my old 1969-72 old Kay ( Teisko ? ) Japan guitar.
Original parts still around, pic #1 . Give you an idea of the origional. Pickguard long gone.
You can see the reshaping in two places to bring the giant pocket a little bit back to normal.
Fixed neck cracks.






The second pic, on left, how it was before I started Saturday.. This is like it's 5th revision.

People artificially "relic" guitars. They sand down the finish by the "wrist wear" areas.
But this 45 year old guitar is the real deal. With many stories. I might leave the rustic look, not sure.
Temporary modified "Strat" pickguard for now. I have a blank pickguard on order I'll shape a better design later.
 
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Hate to whore up this thread. But it's called "show us your gear" so, here's my old 1969-72 old Kay ( Teliko ? ) Japan guitar.
Original parts still around, pic #1 . Give you an idea of the origional. Pickguard long gone.
You can see the reshaping in two places to bring the giant pocket a little bit back to normal.
Fixed neck cracks.






The second pic, on left, how it was before I started Saturday.. This is like it's 5th revision.

People artificially "relic" guitars. They sand down the finish by the "wrist wear" areas.
But this 45 year old guitar is the real deal. With many stories. I might leave the rustic look, not sure.
Temporary modified "Strat" pickguard for now. I have a blank pickguard on order I'll shape a better design later.
I dig those old Japanese guitars. I have a 60's Univox 12 string and a short scale bass, both with original parts and electronics. They have a nice tone, something that would be hard to get out of a new guitar.
 
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I dig those old Japanese guitars. I have a 60's Univox 12 string and a short scale bass, both with original parts and electronics. They have a nice tone, something that would be hard to get out of a new guitar.
That is freakin awesome ! Snap a picture, at least of the Univox 12x.
I have the original saddle and bridge, in addition to the pickups, for mine here.
 
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Hate to whore up this thread. But it's called "show us your gear" so, here's my old 1969-72 old Kay ( Teliko ? ) Japan guitar.
Original parts still around, pic #1 . Give you an idea of the origional. Pickguard long gone.
You can see the reshaping in two places to bring the giant pocket a little bit back to normal.
Fixed neck cracks.






The second pic, on left, how it was before I started Saturday.. This is like it's 5th revision.

People artificially "relic" guitars. They sand down the finish by the "wrist wear" areas.
But this 45 year old guitar is the real deal. With many stories. I might leave the rustic look, not sure.
Temporary modified "Strat" pickguard for now. I have a blank pickguard on order I'll shape a better design later.
I love it! I would leave the finish, you don't want to hide the stories that baby wants to tell
 
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After fighting with not being able to get the right gain settings for my tastes I jumped in the deep end and ordered my first "expensive" pedal. My Grampa used to say, "buy cheap, buy twice" but in the world of guitar pedals that could be "buy dozens" lol. Luckily this is only my second overdrive pedal and while it may not be my last, it suits my needs perfectly and sounds AMAZING. And their warranty is pretty tough to beat. The fact that my EHX pedal took a dump and their service is poo poo got me to jump in the deep end.
 
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That. Was. Not. Freakin. Cheap ! Congrats !

I watched the (second) demo video here https://www.jhspedals.com/products/guitar-pedals/double-barrel/
Love the 2 channel. Crisp highs. Nice clean overdrive.
Looks like nice, straightforward shaping, too. ( My only pedal is the BOSS ME25 ... you can get "lost" in it. )
That's what I love about it too. The EHX is not what I would call cheap either, I paid $140 very lightly used but it is either hardly any gain or in your face and it isn't very clean at all. The Double Barrel is super versatile and will get tons of use for what I play so I will get my money's worth. Those reviews don't do it justice. I need to order the little red remote soon so I can switch the gain setting on the left side on stage easily, it's a great feature.
 
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That's what I love about it too. The EHX is not what I would call cheap either, I paid $140 very lightly used but it is either hardly any gain or in your face and it isn't very clean at all. The Double Barrel is super versatile and will get tons of use for what I play so I will get my money's worth. Those reviews don't do it justice. I need to order the little red remote soon so I can switch the gain setting on the left side on stage easily, it's a great feature.
You already have one. I would think if you gut your dead EHX you could just use that to switch. Throw out the internal board and go from pedal switch to jack. Plug in your patch cable to the shotgun.I really think that is just a glorified on/off kind of trigger.

But I could be waaay wrong. I fthe remote is $15 you may wan to just buy one, I dunno...

Guess a test would be to plug a short patch cable into the remote, and short it, and see if it switches. Sounds scary, but I would think the v4 would have tolerance for a shorted cable integrated into it. I mean, really... they short all the time. It would be like not waterproofing a diver's watch !

And as always, NEVER TAKE MY ADVICE :dead:
 
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