My plan was to put puck lights on top of the bookshelves, pointing up at the ceiling. There is about a foot between the tops and the ceiling. That should make some nice indirect light. I hadn't thought about lighting the inside as well.I like that profile. Any plans to put LED strip lighting behind them?
That turned out way better than what I had in my head when you were talking about it a while ago LOL. Nice!My current project isn't exactly fine woodworking. Our summer heat wave convinced us to put a ceiling fan in the master bedroom but the wrinkle is, our ceiling is pitched. The fan can be mounted on an angled ceiling but we'd rather keep it centered on the room. This calls from some kind of adapter. I don't want to get into the drywall because: blown insulation. So I intend to scab a box onto the finished ceiling. Construction is a combination of poplar and Baltic birch plywood, intentionally over-over-engineered to be bomb proof. Here's a test fit of the panel inset and junction box, with some flushing up of corners and edges, yet to do:
View attachment 139431
And a view of the inside:
View attachment 139432
Next comes a touch more sanding, a hole for wiring access, and some primer and paint. Then it gets lagged to a rafter. Wiring will go through surface mounted raceway from an old lighting junction a few feet away...again, to stay out of the drywall.
Nice work!That most certainly is woodworking. Nice.
I finished a quick little project today. I purposely didn’t build a whole lot of dividers into the magazine caddies up-thread, opting instead to make organizer modules later that suit my and The Wife’s needs. Looking in my wife’s caddy, I decide it was time to make her one. I hope she likes it. She doesn’t yet know that I’ve made it.
She’s been keeping pens and a pair of reading glasses in a disposable plastic cup, so I decided to fancify that a bit. I wanted to keep the design consistent with the caddy, which meant QSWO and box joints again. This gave me the opportunity to try out a new blade I picked during our recent trip to Washington: a Forrest Woodworker II, with a special #1 (ATB-R) grind. They even call it a box joint blade. Fantastic blade. Not only are grooves and dados clean with flat bottoms, sawn edges are practically glue ready without jointing.
I resawed a 5/4 piece of oak left over from the caddy build and planed the planks down to 3/8” (9.5mm) and further planed a piece of one to 1/4” (6.4mm) for a pair of dividers. After cutting the sides to size, I cut dados for the dividers with the same blade using multiple passes to sneak up on a good fit. I then box jointed them, glued them up, and trimmed the box to its final height.
I cut the bottom from 1/4” Baltic birch plywood and rather than square off the corners of the rabbet, I rounded the bottom to fit.
For a touch of luxury, I lined one compartment with PSA velour flocking for her readers.
Finish was three coats of spray shellac, followed by three coats of satin lacquer.
My wife gave me an awesomely geeky Christmas present: the periodic table of elements in cast acrylic. To show it off properly, I decided that make a base for it.
I didn't want to cut into a large exotic board for this little project and I didn't have a scrap wide enough to do it all in one go but I did have a stick of Bolivian rosewood I could glue up in three sections. This allowed my to make the mortise by sizing the center section to the thickness of the casting and notching it to match its width, before glue-up. Trimmed to size, sanded to 400g, finished with BLO and a few coats of Minwax 'Special Dark' paste wax, applied with a fine Scotchbrite pad and buffed vigorously.