Got me a new project!
- Thread starter .jacob
- Start date
SkinsFanLarry
Craft Beer Addict!
- Joined
- Oct 14, 2008
- Messages
- 14,355
"I have a question; as to a glue to bond the spanish cedar, what will hold up to the RH but not give off any gasious odor?"
Wade....Wade....you out there my brother....come on I know you know the answer to that question Wade.
Wade....Wade....you out there my brother....come on I know you know the answer to that question Wade.
Soundwave13
BoM Feb 2010
That looks beautifull! It'll make a great humidor!
I'm jealous. I've been frequenting antique shops looking for a cabinet I can use. I keep seeing the old ice boxes but none are big enough for what I want.
Alright, I just got home from the first day of woodworking classes and I'm feeling confident about tackling this project. First I have a few questions...
Since cedar is far more absorbent of moisture than whatever ultra-hardwood the cabinet is made of. For this reason I'm hesitant about gluing the cedar lining of the humidor into the cabinet. I'm leaning towards a floating system in which the cedar panels float and are not affixed permanently to the cabinet, sort of like how mid-level desktop humidors are constructed. What do you guys think of that? I like this method because it's easy to line and it could be removed eventually, though I don't think I'd ever remove it.
The challenge with a floating lining is the door. I think it would be a challenge to line the door with a sheet of cedar beveled and aligned perfectly so it makes contact with the interior lining and makes that seal as found on desktop humidors. It seems to me that a rubber/foam gasket with magnets would be an easier route to go. I've seen a few cabinet humidors with a gasket seal. A gasket would eliminate the need to bevel edges on the cedar at the door and allow a magnet to get the job done of keeping the door sealed and shut. What do you guys think of that?
The box itself is well made with thick hardwood so it is pretty airtight with the exception of the door. For that reason, loose cedar lining (meaning not affixed) should be sufficient since it only needs to offer its scent rather that seal the box. The only seal area of concern is the door and I think some rubber should do the trick.
Sorry this was long and rambling. I was talking myself through it as writing. Humidors and woodworking are new territory for me and I could really use some suggestions as to how line the box and seal the door.
Thanks!
Jacob
Since cedar is far more absorbent of moisture than whatever ultra-hardwood the cabinet is made of. For this reason I'm hesitant about gluing the cedar lining of the humidor into the cabinet. I'm leaning towards a floating system in which the cedar panels float and are not affixed permanently to the cabinet, sort of like how mid-level desktop humidors are constructed. What do you guys think of that? I like this method because it's easy to line and it could be removed eventually, though I don't think I'd ever remove it.
The challenge with a floating lining is the door. I think it would be a challenge to line the door with a sheet of cedar beveled and aligned perfectly so it makes contact with the interior lining and makes that seal as found on desktop humidors. It seems to me that a rubber/foam gasket with magnets would be an easier route to go. I've seen a few cabinet humidors with a gasket seal. A gasket would eliminate the need to bevel edges on the cedar at the door and allow a magnet to get the job done of keeping the door sealed and shut. What do you guys think of that?
The box itself is well made with thick hardwood so it is pretty airtight with the exception of the door. For that reason, loose cedar lining (meaning not affixed) should be sufficient since it only needs to offer its scent rather that seal the box. The only seal area of concern is the door and I think some rubber should do the trick.
Sorry this was long and rambling. I was talking myself through it as writing. Humidors and woodworking are new territory for me and I could really use some suggestions as to how line the box and seal the door.
Thanks!
Jacob
An antique ice box would be sick. I love the hardware on those with the ridiculous hinges and latches. An idea to consider if you don't want to drop $1,000 on the real thing would be to build your own. There are a number of instructions out there about how to build one and a number of places do sell the old latches as well as reproductions of them. If you use the right wood and antique it, it could look better than the real thing. You could also build it to spec so it's the right size and has the right accessibility.
Thanks Ron! I will certainly let you know when I get there. You can see in the picture the door shuts flush into the cabinet. I'm thinking of using 3/8" (or maybe 3/4") thick Spanish cedar to line the box. That thickness is plenty to slap rubber stripping on the edge and set it back that back the width of the door (approx 1") from the front of the box and let the cedar lining w/ the rubber stripping be the contact on the door.
Question, is Spanish cedar available in sheets at 3/4" thickness? I need about a 4'x4' board to do this. I called my local woodworking shop and they have 1" thickness at 5 inches x 10 ft long. I suppose I could mill it and cut it down and glue up the panels, but solid panel construction would be better, right?
Thats a nice cabinet!!!!
I lined the inside of an antique chest. I just floated the walls and made a false floor for the bottom. Stuck the spanish cedar panel to the top with some velco and im all set. I recessed the top of the spanish cedar 1/4" below the top of the chest to allow the top piece to set down into it.
I started off with a 1x10x10 piece of spanish cedar from a local millworks company. I had to slice it in half in order to resaw it into 1/4" thicknesses on my tablesaw. Then I glued the panels together after the resawing.
And now chuck full...
I had enough left over to make 3 11x16 trays as well.
Here's one...
I lined the inside of an antique chest. I just floated the walls and made a false floor for the bottom. Stuck the spanish cedar panel to the top with some velco and im all set. I recessed the top of the spanish cedar 1/4" below the top of the chest to allow the top piece to set down into it.
I started off with a 1x10x10 piece of spanish cedar from a local millworks company. I had to slice it in half in order to resaw it into 1/4" thicknesses on my tablesaw. Then I glued the panels together after the resawing.
And now chuck full...
I had enough left over to make 3 11x16 trays as well.
Here's one...
