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Cigar Molds Thread

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Thank you first of all going through the motions for us. If you haven't noticed, this has been a running topic here.
Yes, no problem. I ran into it when I was frustrated looking for decent molds for myself. My problem is that I want to make a number of sizes and experiment, and I wasn't ready to drop $100 for each sized experiment!
 
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If you wanted just the plastic one I could probably put this together for around $50 which covers the consumables and it will take a little time to modify one of my existing molds (plus a day of printing time if nothing gets jammed and I have to start over), and then whatever it costs to ship it to wherever you are. I'm on the east coast of US. I'm beta testing wrapping my molds in a hard wood so it is more visually pleasing but still have the benefits of plastic (i.e. no cracking and humidity issues you see with wood). I suspect it will turn out nice, but it involves more time and consumables.

If you wanted a more "fine" or "detailed" print it would take longer. You make the layers thinner so it is overall smoother. It could be anywhere from 2-5x longer depending on the settings I use. The one in the picture above is high speed and larger layers. Still the same functionality and total plastic for what I needed, but just less printing time.
Would a smoother one cost me more? Smoother the better, and time is not a consideration at my end. Thanks again.
 
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Would a smoother one cost me more? Smoother the better, and time is not a consideration at my end. Thanks again.
Let me consider it. Since I'm a hobbiest, it locks up my single (expensive) printer so I can't do stuff that I want to do with it - so time is fun. Lol. I don't mind being down a day here and there, but multiday prints are not only a lot of time, but if the tiniest thing goes wrong, you have to start from scratch. I'm a perfectionist so I try to get it done as well as I can, so I usually have to start over. The other option is getting it printed online... they do it professionally so I bet it would cost more. When I looked at my 2 stick 60 ring model above, it started at around $65. I haven't even tried pricing plastic that was 3x more volume. Have you looked at 3D printed objects before? Even if I go into the 100's of micron levels, it is not going to be perfectly smooth without a bunch of sanding and perhaps an acetone vapor bath (which if done incorrectly, can ruin a large good print). 3D printers are more meant for prototyping, but I use it all the time for hobbies like this.
 
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4 would be fine.
I could probably do a 4 stick print, which takes at least 24 hours (in fast mode - 2x-5x longer for a smoother print), for about $75 in consumables.... plus to ship it wherever you are. I think that timing was pretty accurate when I created a test 4 stick mold for myself this week. I'm working on a 6 stick mold right now and it's coming out great, it just takes a long time and has to be restarted if it burps anywhere. I could try to make an odd number stick mold if you wanted, but in my limited rolling time I've noticed that even numbers work out well when you use 1/2 leaf on things like that wrapper. It's easier to wet one whole leaf than wet it, cut it, and put the unused half back.
 
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Let me consider it. Since I'm a hobbiest, it locks up my single (expensive) printer so I can't do stuff that I want to do with it - so time is fun. Lol. I don't mind being down a day here and there, but multiday prints are not only a lot of time, but if the tiniest thing goes wrong, you have to start from scratch. I'm a perfectionist so I try to get it done as well as I can, so I usually have to start over. The other option is getting it printed online... they do it professionally so I bet it would cost more. When I looked at my 2 stick 60 ring model above, it started at around $65. I haven't even tried pricing plastic that was 3x more volume. Have you looked at 3D printed objects before? Even if I go into the 100's of micron levels, it is not going to be perfectly smooth without a bunch of sanding and perhaps an acetone vapor bath (which if done incorrectly, can ruin a large good print). 3D printers are more meant for prototyping, but I use it all the time for hobbies like this.
Hi. Yeah, I understand everything you're saying. I have looked into it, even had a fancy mold designed by shift-six here, but it turned out to be prohibitively expensive to print out such a mold professionally. The hope was some day some botl would show up with his own rig, thereby possibly improving the economics of the proposition.

Well I'll let you think on it. Seems like the regular rough-and-ready might be good enough, though, based on what you've shown and done. And that could be sanded and acetoned, too. Plus I'd hate to increase the risk-of-failure odds too much, let alone monopolize too much time on the gear.
 
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Hi. Yeah, I understand everything you're saying. I have looked into it, even had a fancy mold designed by shift-six here, but it turned out to be prohibitively expensive to print out such a mold professionally. The hope was some day some botl would show up with his own rig, thereby possibly improving the economics of the proposition.

Well I'll let you think on it. Seems like the regular rough-and-ready might be good enough, though, based on what you've shown and done. And that could be sanded and acetoned, too. Plus I'd hate to increase the risk-of-failure odds too much, let alone monopolize too much time on the gear.
That's exactly why I posted here. I followed this thread for a while and was having the same difficulties until I picked up a cad program and took a shot at it myself. It's definitely the biggest project I've designed and printed successfully. I started rolling without a mold and a mold seriously stepped up my game. It turned out much better than I thought it would. I can't wait for these 60's I rolled to age so I can try them!
Mind if I ask where you all like to get your leaves? I've only experienced leaf only so far. My experience has been good, but the PA leaves have a lot of big veins in them.
 
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Hi. Yeah, I understand everything you're saying. I have looked into it, even had a fancy mold designed by shift-six here, but it turned out to be prohibitively expensive to print out such a mold professionally. The hope was some day some botl would show up with his own rig, thereby possibly improving the economics of the proposition.

Well I'll let you think on it. Seems like the regular rough-and-ready might be good enough, though, based on what you've shown and done. And that could be sanded and acetoned, too. Plus I'd hate to increase the risk-of-failure odds too much, let alone monopolize too much time on the gear.
Bliss, I didn't catch on! We talked last week. I love your YouTube videos. If my molds help you do more videos, I'm more than game to help you out! I'd love to see you roll a Hemingway, as I have no idea how. I watch your videos every night when I'm relaxing with a stick!
 
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Bliss, I didn't catch on! We talked last week. I love your YouTube videos. If my molds help you do more videos, I'm more than game to help you out! I'd love to see you roll a Hemingway, as I have no idea how. I watch your videos every night when I'm relaxing with a stick!
Great, I'm stoked you like my vids and find them helpful! Thanks for the positive feedback, much appreciated.

But it was MarcL who wanted to do the Hemingway. He's the funky shapes master around these parts. I have rolled some things, though, so could probably find my way around a Hemingway if given the chance. Here's some of my curvy stuff:



I would definitely accept any help you could give me in the mold purchasing department.

And in fact I'm getting my leaf for free right now from Webmost, mostly WLT stuff, since you asked.

Thanks again!
 
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I have a 3 slot 3D printed mold that had been bombed to me by a very generous brother here. It's not the smoothest inside, but after wrapping you wouldn't know the difference one bit. My personal experience says don't stress too much over that. The biggest thing is having the "top" or "lid" being thinner than the "body" of the mold. The one I have is two even pieces and while it does function it does have some quirks that a more traditional mold does not have. I hope this makes sense and helps. When I get home I will snap some pics to show as to explain better.
 
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