Help, my car is stroking out
- Thread starter bostoneo
- Start date
That injector should still fire, and would report with an error code.
But yeah, could be more chewed up wires, sure !
Hey just test your purge solenoid so we can get that out of the way.
I say this because your scanner is not displaying
P2187 System Too Lean
P0442 Small Leak
P0455 Large Vac leak
Don't quit this one until you are halfway through.
But yeah, could be more chewed up wires, sure !
Hey just test your purge solenoid so we can get that out of the way.
I say this because your scanner is not displaying
P2187 System Too Lean
P0442 Small Leak
P0455 Large Vac leak
Don't quit this one until you are halfway through.
I think the second video is a 2010. I believe what happens is the fumes from the fuel tank are recycled back into the engine intake for fuel economy.
That's why when you gas up, it agitates the fuel and "floods" the engine. But after seeing the condition under your hood, you might want to locate this valve and test it,
before buying anything. But what I see today, this is a common issue with Mazdas.
bostoneo
The Chosen One
That one is 2009 at least, could tell from the grill... mine has the smiley face. Rooting around for the part, seems like there may be 2? ever hear of that? #6 and 7, https://www.oemautopartz.com/mazda/...as-engine/emission-system-cat/egr-system-scat
bostoneo
The Chosen One
yup 2010 Mazda3 (sport trim (NOT speed)) 2.5L, VIN JM1BL1H52A1172063
Still trying to find the 2010 Mada3 purge valve(s) location. There apparently is some sort of mixup with the parts numbers like you experienced.
This guy is experiencing the same issues you are, ( post #5) with the same results your mechanic did. Interesting. But hes' 2009 I think.
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?67980-How-To-Replace-Purge-Solenoid-Valve-(Gen1)
This guy is experiencing the same issues you are, ( post #5) with the same results your mechanic did. Interesting. But hes' 2009 I think.
http://www.torontomazda3.ca/forum/showthread.php?67980-How-To-Replace-Purge-Solenoid-Valve-(Gen1)
bostoneo
The Chosen One
when looked I could of sworn it had a right angle connection, I didn't look for a 2nd one though. Know it had a blue plastic ring at the other side of the hose by the intake manifold.
I was just going to warn you some use a hard plastic hose connection. They love to crack when you disturb them.
But is looks like Mazdas use good ol rubber vac hose. The final ends appear to use those snap ring connectors.
If you have one valve, I'd just replace it. If your car has two, you should remove them (independently) and test them.
If this was my kids car, this would be the next thing I would be trying to rule out.
I'm going to check for the location (s) again. Phone keeps ringing over here... lol
But is looks like Mazdas use good ol rubber vac hose. The final ends appear to use those snap ring connectors.
If you have one valve, I'd just replace it. If your car has two, you should remove them (independently) and test them.
If this was my kids car, this would be the next thing I would be trying to rule out.
I'm going to check for the location (s) again. Phone keeps ringing over here... lol
Oh well I can't find crap on the 2010 valve location. The 2009 on the other hand, plenty of info.
Anyways, here's the solenoids for your car. Try to locate them. The one I previously mentioned is there. The 4th item leads me to believe you may have two.
But they can be tested. Just mark the hoses so you don't mix them up.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,2010,3,2.5l l4,1444219,emission,vapor canister purge valve,4936
Anyways, here's the solenoids for your car. Try to locate them. The one I previously mentioned is there. The 4th item leads me to believe you may have two.
But they can be tested. Just mark the hoses so you don't mix them up.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,2010,3,2.5l l4,1444219,emission,vapor canister purge valve,4936
Can't really see... is that it? Does it match one of the RockAuto images? Looks like it takes an 8MM socket there.
Another 'freebie" thing you can do, besides removing and testing the purge valve, is the 'idle relearn procedure.'
1- unplug the battery, negative side is fine
2- reconnect properly after 5 minutes
3- start car, accessories off. Let it idle undisturbed in the driveway for 20 minutes
4- after 20 minutes, get back into car and start the AC. Set temp to cold. Blower on.
(Doesn't matter if AC works really good or not, it's just to force the idle advance )
5- Let it idle in the driveway for 10 minutes with AC on.
6- Idle learn procedure done. You can shut off car, however most people jump right in and test drive a while to see if problem is gone.
Another 'freebie" thing you can do, besides removing and testing the purge valve, is the 'idle relearn procedure.'
1- unplug the battery, negative side is fine
2- reconnect properly after 5 minutes
3- start car, accessories off. Let it idle undisturbed in the driveway for 20 minutes
4- after 20 minutes, get back into car and start the AC. Set temp to cold. Blower on.
(Doesn't matter if AC works really good or not, it's just to force the idle advance )
5- Let it idle in the driveway for 10 minutes with AC on.
6- Idle learn procedure done. You can shut off car, however most people jump right in and test drive a while to see if problem is gone.
Great advise.
I used to have to do the throttle body relearn on the Caddy every once in a while. The procedure was a little more interactive though. Then there was also the transmission relearn. You do that on a highway. I eventually went to the dealer, and for $60 had the TCM reflashed. Well spent. There were a couple revisions my car had missed out on.
