Not quit done yet, but have been hard at work and have made some major progress, as can be seen by the following pics!
(64) Cutting and splicing in extension leads for the LED lights that will run from shelf to shelf. Pretty easy, just cut the strip on the little scissor lines. Then with a razor blade cut through the silicone coating.
(65) Be careful not to cut through the circuit board. Only enough to clear the silicone and uncover the contacts.
(66) Tin the wire ends.
(67) Also Tin the contacts on the light strips. Tinning both the wires and contacts is a key part to getting a good Solder Joint. If you have a cold joint, which is where it melts to one side and not the other the lights will not work!
(68) Soldering complete with the wires and contacts melted together. Tug on the connection to make sure it is good.
(69) Add a little silicone to the connection to make it water tight and apply Shrink Wrap.
(70) Installing lights in cabinet. You can see the jumper wire extensions I had to add in on the sides for the distance between each shelf. The two wires in the center will connect to the back of the control box.
(71) 1,200 LED lights installed with two 600 LED Light Strips!
(72) All lit up! The indicator lights in the box have since been toned down a bit, as well, as can be seen in latter pics.
The next set of pics is a bit of a surprise I have been working on. I didn't want to mention it until I knew I could do it and make it happen. So, after having originally deciding to go with a Habitat Monitor and researching the only three custom Active Humidifying Systems on the market at $300 - $500 plus I decided to design my own. I can also custom make these for anyone who would want a active system. Lot of work and time in this, but I'm dang proud of it!!!
(73) Introducing the GC1-4 Humidification System!
(74) All the humidification fans in the boxes will be connected with DC plugs for a clean install and ease of removing the boxes for water refills.
(75) One of the boxes with fan installed and before the silicone treatment to seal it.
(76) Each unit was first lined with a thin layer of silicone then three coats of Plasti Dip followed by another thin skin coat of silicone. Very, very water tight. Each box holds just over two quarts of water for a total of 2 1/2 gallons for the system. I will be using humidification crystals in these, as well.
(77) For those who might be seeing this an don't know exactly how it all works, the fans will blow across the water forcing moist air out of the breather holes in the boxes, thus humidifying the air inside the cabinet.
(78) The brains of the system is ran by a Willhi Humidity and Temp Controller. This will kick the box fans on at 69% Humidity and off at 71% or whatever the set point is. It was within .03 accuracy by the salt test right out of the box! The Temp Controller can control a heating and/or cooling unit. I will have it hooked to the AC Unit in the room with the probe inside the cabinet and set to kick on at 70 degrees and off at 71.
(79) Internal working of the control box. Contains three power supplies, 24Hr Timer, the two control units, manual on off switch for lights, Two indicator lights to indicate when the humidity fans or circulating fans are running and a fan mounted to the top of the box to run 24Hrs a day to keep the electronics cool!
(80) All wiring connections made on the back of the box for a clean install.
(81) The Model # is GC1-4. My initials followed by a 1 to indicate the first unit I built followed by a 4 to indicate it is a 4 box system. Again, I can build these for anyone who would want a little cheaper alternative to the other big three custom humidification builders.
Next will be the install of all the circulation fans and humidification boxes, so stay tuned!